UKC

I'm going next week and will have 2/3 days to climb. Looking for any info that will minimise faff when I get there.

What are the best crags for 6a - 7a walls and slabs? (I love technical, fingery climbing and I don't really like caves and overhanging tufas - I'm too heavy )

I'm also aware that some crags might be bird-banned.

Any other info would be great especially concerning food and cool bars.

Cheers,

E

I went for the first time a couple weeks ago and it’s an amazing place! Don’t believe what people say about the polish, most of the crags we went to were far less polished than most popular modern sport venues, barring a few of the very popular/older crags like at monte cucco (never climbed there, but we were warned not to by other folk).

Pretty much every crag we went to was a crimpy/pocketed wall/slab, so sounds like it should suit you! In terms of minimising faff, the guidebook by marco tomassini is possibly one of the best guidebooks I’ve ever used and the walk-in descriptions are very detailed, so definitely worth picking up a copy.

We found a lot of the grading to be fairly stiff, especially on some of the older crags, so I would recommend keeping an open mind with regards to grades (some felt 2-3 grades harder than equivalently graded uk routes).

In terms of recommended crags, we really enjoyed everything in the Rian Cornei valley, especially camelot 1 and 2, tranquillita, and placconata. Some of the crags low down in valle aquilla are very pleasant with a good range of routes in easier grades, would especially recommend placca dei maleducati, but these crags did seem to get busy on weekends. Grotta del edera is worth a visit just to see the amazing rock feature with some great vertical routes on pockets.

Would also recommend visiting val pennavaire (30 mins drive away) if you have time, some amazing long crimpy routes at the terminal area crags.

For good value food, we really enjoyed the cafe by the museum in finalborgo. Just order one beer with aperitivo for €5 and you basically get a free meal!

Hope that is some help!

Ben

If you're looking for slabs and walls and fingery climbing you'll be spoilt for choice out there, loads to choose from.  I'd have to look at the book to give you a proper list, but I do remeber going back to La Torre sector, and the surrounding sectors, a few times https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/monte_cucco-3353/#overview

Antico Pozzo Bar Bistro is great for post climbing beers and snacks (like Ben said they more or less bring you a meal when you go for a beer), Bar Centrale in the square is good for a quick beer, or Tia Pepa if you're looking for something a bit more.

Anywhere and everywhere we ate was amazing, just perfect...

Brilliant, brilliant place to visit, hope to go back someday soon!

Thanks for taking the time to reply. That's exactly the info I was looking for.

In fact we've been looking at a nice Airbnb in Finalborgo. Looks like it's about 15m walk to the main town and beach.

E

Last time we went we got really nice and cheap pizza in Triora (where some of the good climbing in Oltra Finale is) but given you're only there for 3 days, I'd guess you'll stick to Finale.

Brilliant! Thanks.

E

It's a while ago but two things stand out - the tough grading, though less evident on the grade 5-ish multipitch routes we did, and the finest post-climbs-tea-time-beer venue I've ever enjoyed - the square in Finale Borgo.

We ate in the nearby town and it was good. There are pies which are apparently a Ligurian speciality, strong recommend. 
 

You probably already know this but.. the grades are a bit of a joke. Take pleasure from the glorious limestone and post climb pizzas, because you almost certainly won’t be ticking the first of a new grade at Finale. 

My most vivid memory (great venue by the way) was the aborted take- off from Genoa airport as we sucked some birds into an engine just as we were about to unstick from the tarmac. Punctured tyres, replacement plane arrived 12 hours later. Still makes me nervous.

I think that's one of the things I loved most about it - you just forget all about the grades and just enjoy it for what it is.  Great climbing in a lovely setting!

Yeah lovely that square isn't it?!

We ate at a superb agri-tourismo after one of our days cragging there. I'll try and find out exactly which one it was but the food was fantastic and just kept on coming!

Thanks for the beer/food tips, off to Finale for a week in early May for MTB

Food, must go.

Quarto di bue 🐂 

Final Borgo.

off the main square, hidden away. 

If your guidebook doesn't list FAs it'll be very difficult to follow the grades. The oldest routes are graded "correctly" (i.e. very hard by today's standards) and grade creep can be traced through to the current day (still generally a bit stiffer than Spanish grades).

FA date also affects the bolting quite starkly - the oldest routes are still bolted just to keep you off the ground. The newest crags are bolted in a modern style, but in the middle the bolting is interesting - bolts starting out close together with the distance increasing as you get higher - personally I thought this was great as it's nice and safe but let's you get in a good flow higher up, but some find it intimidating.

Thanks. I should be ok with runouts and anti-holiday grading. My local crags are Buis les Baronnies, St. Leger, The Dentelles etc.

E

Sounds amazing. Just to jump onto this, but when is a good time of year to visit?

Everytime beyond summer.

If you're in a van avoid tourist season at all costs, the odds of a breakin are very high. Otherwise, if you do go in summer empty your car at all times, leave glovebox open, etc.

I went in May, couple of rainy days here and there but it was absolutely glorious most of the time.

Would also recommend spending a night or two in Turin if you’re flying into or out of there, lovely city that…

We also took a look around Genoa on a rainy day, less lovely but interesting enough. 

Quarto di Bue is a must, been living in Italy for a couple of years and it's the best steak I've had here. They speak English too. The ice cream from the bar in the square is decent. Although it's good from most gelaterias you'll come across here. 

Pam supermarket in Finalborgo is much bigger and better than the smaller mini markets. There's also the best parking for going into Finalborgo right next to it, free most days. 

It's hard to choose crags as there are so many and the guidebooks don't have a top 50 or even a starring system like UK ones do. 

There's a recently rebolted crag called Casa Del Vacche, accessed from Calvisio. Zero polish as it had been abandoned for years, but the routes are mostly excellent that I've done there. It's not really covered in the guidebook, but check Climbook. It's also much less busy than other crags.

Skarafonia is handy if you're dodging showers or only have a short window as its a 3 min walk in, protected from the wind too. Good routes around 6a, but some are polished and most are a bit dusty. 

Placca del Oasi is good, though the parking is a bit hairy and the road noise is a bit annoying, but Balance is one of the best routes I've done here. Maybe not worth it if you're only climbing 2-3 days though. 

Be careful driving and crossing the road - Italians refuse to give way to pedestrians, even at ped crossings - don't expect them to!

Bring a rope bag as the crag bases are fine sandy mud that trashes ropes really quick. 

We had a week there at the end of last year, and have had the odd day previously, climbing at the same kinds of grades you are interested in. Here are a couple of blog posts that cover the crags we visited including some route recommendations (and perhaps some to avoid!) 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/11/22/grand-finale/

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2020/10/17/finale-the-original-one/

One "must visit" crag would be Grotta dell Edera, which stands comparison with Huntsman's Leap as an atmospheric climbing spot:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/05/14/grotta-delledera/

And whilst there's enough climbing for a lifetime in Finale, if you fancy a change of scene, Oltre Finale is less than an hour away. 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2020/09/27/benvenuto-in-val-pennavaire/

Enjoy! Cheers, Dom 

Don't drive up the road past the church of Sant Eusebio despite the guidebook suggesting stopping at the parking further up the road. We had a €150 fine for being on the road 2 weeks ago since it became residents only last year. There was a barrier and sign to close the road but it was open so we drove past

Dropped pin
https://maps.app.goo.gl/nf44o8thdYi3SwYK7

 Newly bolted crags have less polish than rebolted crags. First 4 routes you come to at a crag are the most polished. Easiest 4 are the most polished. Shortest 4 are the most polished. Crags with a 10minute walk in are busiest. Get to car parks before 10am if you want a space not on the roadside.

Thanks for this.

The Grotta looks incredible. Looks like there's a dream route there, Lubna, but at 7b with Finale grades might be just out of reach this time.

Cheers,

E

Cheers! Good info. I just read that you should park by the Church and not drive any further.

E

The route to the left (Endurance 7A) is amazing though.

There's two ways in, worth going in through the cave below the first time, tremendous view as you climb out of the hole.

Yeah it’s lovely that isn’t it? 

After climbing g there for a day we went up to the top way in just for a stroll and a look on a warm spring evening. Absolutely delightful.

Do you have any beta on the way in through the cave? I believe there's a fixed rope and a headtorch is handy. I'll might have two unfit kids with me.

Cheers,

E

Headtorch is handy but there's no technical difficulty - if I remember correctly you go down the right hand side of the cave (facing in) and up a ramp that runs right to left, with a hole at the top to climb through.

Yes that’s exactly right. 

The ramp is very easy, more akin to a staircase than a climb, should be no problem for kids, in fact I think they’ll have great fun!