UKC

First of all, the gloating part of the post - going back to Bishop again next month for a couple of week's bouldering, climbing and skiing.

Now the problem - last year, I ended up with (if I remember rightly) somewhere arount 12 flappers on my 10 fingers (including the total loss of the skin on the fingertip of one thumb), which made climbing very painful by the end of the trip.

My question, therefore, is does anyone know of any treatments you can give your hands, either in advance, or at the end of each day's climbing, which will prevent them getting shreadded this time round?

In reply to Stuart S: sand paper your tips, isn't there some sort of skin care stuff for climbers I've seen it at the wall in bristol.

In reply to Anonymous:

It's not just the tips though - I was getting flappers on the soft skin between each joint on my fingers.

This sking care stuff sounds more along the lines of what I was hoping to hear about. Can you remember what it's called?

In reply to Stuart S:

Good question, I've not been climbing long but managed to get my first nice big flapper last night.

Do people just tape them up to climb on them?

In reply to Stuart S:

http://www.planetfear.com/shop/category.html?id=430 here is the link its called Climb On!

In reply to Stuart S:

Stuart, the stuff you want is called ClimbOn cream and works wonders!

You can order it online from http://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com

In reply to Adam Lincoln:


Hmmm, Adam Lincoln in moisturiser shock!

Whatever next>

In reply to Stuart S: You could always try getting those finger tip condom things aswell. They won't stop you getting blisters or flappers between your fingers but at very least you should be able to keep climbing once you've shredded your tips and they'll probably last longer with them. If you do a search on plentfear it should show something up.

In reply to Jay218:

Taping them up was how I survived in Bishop last year. Trouble was, when it was hot and sweaty, the tape didn't last long.

This Climb On stuff sounds like it may be the business though...

In reply to Stuart S: File down your callouses with a corn file after a shower and then moisturise them with Palmers or something like that. Means much less chance of them catching on stuff and ripping into a flapper. Works for me.

In reply to Aimee Dean:

Watch it you

In reply to Stuart S:
Super glue?! Seriously... I didn't but my mate John was using it when we were in Joshua Tree and seemed to work!

In reply to Stuart S:

start an intensive regime of moisturising with a decent product like neutrogena norwegian fisherman's formula, or nivea intensive now.

for inbetween climbing and after climbing use the ClimbOn products, either the creme or the bar work very well.
the bar is better for the tips.

if you get a flapper use superglue.
if a nail starts to work loose let a little glue run under the nail.

In reply to Stuart S: You have soft middle class fingers and when you start pulling on rough rock, all that lovely skin just peels off. There is no solution. I did a week in Font about 2 weeks ago and although my fingers were ok at the time, all the skin has now peeled off. You could try moisturiser at the end of each day, but unless you can find a way of toughening up your fingers before you go, this is bound to happen again.

Have a fab time out there!

In reply to Stuart S:

1. Climb everyday on your home gym, including pockets and small crimpers.

2. Climb as often as possible outside

3. Sandpaper lightly

4. Moisturize as recommended above. Although the best stuff I've found is Nappy (diaper) rash cream.

And Stuart, when you get here don't go daft the first few days. Do a moderate (20 probs) circuit of VB to V2's at the Happies, next day at the Buttermilk WITHOUT TAPE. Moisturize. Place hands and fingers carefully.

Have a rest day - take a day trip to Death Valley or go skiing.

Limit hot springs to once every four days.

Climb in the shade, not on hot rock.

Then TAPE UP....and up the anti to V2 to V4's but lower the quantity.

Takes about a week to get them good.

Mick

In reply to Stuart S:

Wow, the perfect holiday! One day skiing at Mammoth , the next bouldering at Bishop and one day to recover in the hot springs; repeat.

I say just keep your skin soft and pliable with any good moisturizer -- the greasier the better. Use it all the time. I like Badger Balm. Some people swear by Climb On, Shea butter, Bag Balm (for cow udders) or various horse hoof tougheners.

Take some sandpaper or a foot pumice and regularly sand down the rough ridges at the joints and any other rough bits. These act as pull tabs.

When you start to fail on a problem -- let go. Continuing to try and hold on starts the flapper -- at least for me.

Eat a lot of salt. Ultramarathoners do this to prevent blisters on their 50+ mile runs. It does something to the bond b/w the skin layers or something.

Have fun!

In reply to Stuart S: Lipsalve good for finger cracks and intensive moisturising. Easy to apply too.

In reply to Carnage: i do the same, works well.
also use climb on when tips are red raw.

no idea however how to stop my hands from peeling so much! ( this only happens when indoors, their completely trashed within 30 mins ) any ideas to stop this? i must have too many baths!

In reply to Adam Lincoln: yep its the dogs bollocks. they do lip balm as well : )

In reply to Stuart S: best cream is Badger Oil from East Side Sports...not available in the UK afaik

jealous, me???

In reply to Stuart S:

Ill just add an echo here and say CLIMB ON. Some people say it doesnt work, but personally, whilst we were in CB found it fantastic. Within an hour it had hot, sore, stinging hands/tips in perfect shape again, and was great for where shoes were painful on the feet...

Fantastic stuff.

PS I hate you :-P

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

you can buy it in urban rock or you can buy it cheap in the climbing store in bishop

i was pretty sceptical but it does work