UKC

Doug Kerr has public-spiritedly produced a web update for this area:

"The second edition of West Midlands Rock sold out in 2003 and the guide is now out of print. The purpose of this website is to provide, in the short term, updated information for the crags, including details of new routes and changes in access. This website should therefore be used in conjunction with the guide as it merely provides a supplement of the recent activity".

http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:


briliant and thanks for that!!!

In reply to midland climber:

Bump

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Much needed too

Thanks for keeping us informed

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

what does bump mean?

sorry - not a brit!

In reply to midland climber:

bump - gets post back to top of list

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Good stuff! Some interesting information on there. Surely Nesscliffe should be on the ticklist of any self-respecting hardman??

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Jonathan,
Ta for the plug and bump!
Thanks guys for the feedback too.

In reply to Doug Kerr@home: I have the first ascent photo of Obsidian Groove (Awaken). Can't be precise, but my friend and I have agreed May 1980. I'll send it you if you email me your address.

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC: Theres a single copy of the West Midlands guide in Nevis Sport in Aviemore if anyone wants it.

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC: Pump!

In reply to Doug Kerr@home: Has Southstone Rock be banished back into obscurity? What about the mystery thread hanging from the roof?

In reply to Marc C:

Marc,
Awaken first ascent was 1/3/79. Sorry.
If you have a decent photo by all means email it to me and I'll include it as "an early repeat".
You'll find my email address on the westmids site and on here too.
Doug

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Lovely piece of work - thanks for continuing the good work.

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC: I'd always reckoned there'd be climbing somewhere on the Wrekin...
Thanks Doug, top job!
Hmmm, is my old copy of West Mids now officially a collectors item? Can I get Doug to autograph it, I wonder...

Tim, TG

Wow - Open Air, one of my early HVS (4c) leads has been upgraded to E3 5b! That can't be right - I remember flailing badly on most of the real E3s at Nesscliffe - has the route changed in some way? (I'd accept an upgrade to E1 5a though - it is one of the thinnest and most badly protected HVS's I've ever done!)

In reply to Philip Marren:

Well, a couple of Nessclife habitues say E3. It's been years since I did it and it may well have changed. From memory I wouldn't say it was "badly" protected, more like completely unprotected.

Toby A (above)
No. Just no info.

Doug

In reply to Doug Kerr:


Fair enough - I'm just surprised, I led it onsight and cleanly, and I've never onsighted any other E3 (and not that many E2's) so it doesn't 'feel' right. I got five 'decorative' runners in, none of which would have held a fall, but they kept my head happy. The rock is fairly good (I grew up climbing at Grinshill at least twice a week until I left for university so I'm used to sandstone), and none of the moves too tenuous so I think its a straightforward lead/solo. I honestly think no more than E2 5a, and I would still prefer E1.

Phil

In reply to Philip Marren:
>I honestly think no more than E2 5a, and I would still >prefer E1.

That's helpful; thanks for the feedback.
Doug

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Top effort, Doug. Amazing pictures of Nesscliffe. Goodness, I wish I'd got organised and done The Pit and the Pendulum.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:

>I wish I'd got organised and done The Pit and the Pendulum.

Spring is upon us....
Have sticht plate (and lid!) will hold your rope on this.
Let me know when you're ready!