UKC

North Face Direttisma of Everest

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 Tom G 30 May 2004
The latest of the Great Faces, conquered today!

Check out www.mounteverest.net for reports on the Russian feat. Team 1 made it, two further teams are in pursuit...

First Jannu, now this!
 Conan 30 May 2004
In reply to Tom G:
wow, 3 days at and above 8600m ! That's incredible.

Think the unusually calm weather on Everest this year really played a major part in this success.

Think there have been summits almost everyday since the 1st summits 17 days ago. This Russian feat has to be the highlight of the last few climbing in the Himalayas. They even had the mountain almost to themselves as most other teamed had already packed up and left.

 Andrew Barker 02 Jun 2004
In reply to Tom G: It says on www.mounteverest.net that the crux was "6 grade rock" at just over 8600m. Is this UIAA grade VI? If so that's damn impressive considering that's around HVS/E1 climbing at high altitude!
 Glen 02 Jun 2004
In reply to Tom G: Has the north face of Jannu recieve and accent? Any details?
 Doug 02 Jun 2004
In reply to Glen:
yes very recently , see http://www.kairn.com/news.html?theme=1&debut=06%2F02%2F2002&fin=02%...

further links there as well
*****
Première russe en face Nord du Jannu

Une équipe de 11 alpinistes russes a réussi mercredi la première de l'ascension de la face nord directe du Jannu (7.710 m) dans le massif de l'Himalaya (Népal), "la dernière grande face qui résistait et qu'on pensait réalisable dans dix ans seulement", a annoncé vendredi à l'AFP Luc Jourjon, directeur technique de la Fédération des clubs alpins français.
 Glen 02 Jun 2004
In reply to Doug: Very inpressive.

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