UKC

went to brean saturday with the family and took the gear,was pleasantly surprised at the sport routes in boulder cove. I watched a guy get stuck on pandoras box(vs 4c) he took ages to do the route after resting on gear, i thought fair enough probably his first vs not to worry, all his gear was brand new including a nice new pair of 5 10 velcros which i thought fair enough. Later on they decided to come over to boulder cove where i had just done a couple of routes and had the rope left in place on the f6b for my girlfriend to give a go, i politely asked if they wanted to do it first as i knew my girlfriend would be a while on it and the guy i had watched get stuck on a vs turned round and said he was gonna do the f6c followed by the f6c+ the f7a and the f7b+ which i thought ok? He then climbed to the 3rd bolt rested and started complaining the route was harder than f6c and more like hard f7a+ cursing martin crocker for getting it wrong.
I had done the route earlier and found it a good f6c without the need to rest( he hadn't even got to hard move)
We left at this point and walked up to the car and packed the kids and belongings and then got a drink, when we left the guy was still hanging there in the same spot.
Contender for biggest chimp i have met in climbing this year!

surely chimp could be used as a compliment in climbing. i.e. you got up that faster than a chimp with a stoat in his pants.

In reply to Alrobertson:
Yeah that's what I thought, it'd be a compliment to be told you climbed like a chimpanzee.

In reply to Allan Thomson: this one was more of the sloth family, the term chimp is used instead of dickhead/troll/knob or any other term you may wish to use

In reply to dylan burgess:

Surely something with a low IQ that spends hours clinging to the rock without moving very far should be classified as a limpet?

In reply to psd: it must just be a redditch thing then calling someone who is a complete f*ckwit/dickhead/pillock a 'chimp'!

In reply to dylan burgess:

Well, to be honest it's pretty common down in E'esham, too. Must be local...

In reply to dylan burgess:

It's not like Martin knows anything about grading...

In reply to James Jackson: the routes were put up and graded by f haden so he was even wrong there too.

In reply to dylan burgess:

I am a Bristol man and would like to check out these Brean routes. Are they in the new guide? I have never been to Brean - is it tidal atall? What about drying time?

Thanks for your help!

I will almost certainly hang on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd bolts of the 6c. But I won't moan or make excuses.

In reply to Warrior Prong: the boulder cove is worth a visit it is similar climbing to the embankment at cheedale. the gear is excellent too! It is in the new guide book.
I got there and the tide was in so we walked across the down and there is a dodgy path which leads you to the cove, a nice secluded spot when the tide is in which keeps the tourists outta your way. as to the rest of brean there is tonnes of trad routes with scary finishes over a sand top!

In reply to dylan burgess:

He he - excellent. What a moron.

In reply to Warrior Prong:

>I have never been to Brean - is it tidal atall?

Not at all, no.You should be able to park your car on the sand under the crag easily enough and belay from there.

>What about drying time?

Ah, now there you're asking. It'll probably dry out after a week or two, but it may take a little longer to get the sand out of the gearbox.

In reply to dylan burgess: He sounds familiar, there is a guy i saw in avon new gear came over took his top off stood under this e5 pretended to work out the moves waving his hands around, i sat back preparing to watch him do it he done a few stretches then picked his gear up and walked off?
Later i saw him on a route i believe to be hvs about 20ft up resting on a gear placement.
Could be the same troll.

In reply to toni2: yeah sounds like the same nob head. He had to take his top off too as my girlfriend,her aunt and uncle and cousin were watching, her uncle asked me 'why is he hanging there? is he a beginner?'
My girlfriend (who has only been climbing for a short period) looked at me and summed him up by whispering ....'tw*t'.

In reply to dylan burgess:
Sounds like the climber in question has got a few issues for sure, but I don't think that having an attitude like yours aims toward a better climbing spirit. Just a thought.

In reply to dylan burgess: Yes my friend there are plenty of goons with all the gear and no idea pitty! I new a guy like that once called B.E.A.R

In reply to Billy De Kid: thanks for the concern but i like me how i am so if you don't like it well i couldn't care less really.

In reply to dylan burgess: Well mate I think you should 'say what you like and like what you bloody well say' Billy obviously does (Where his horse now)