UKC

I hear bits have fallen off this route, is it still HVS. And Centaur is described as having pitons and peg belays - is it reasonable to lead it with a modern rack? Any info gratefully teceived.

In reply to SydneySteve:

The easiest way up CB these days is HVS. The chockstone fell out some years ago resulting in a tragic accident. The original line is E2/3.

As for Centaur - a normal rack will suffice - the pegs are not mentioned in current guides so will have long gone.

Bob

In reply to Bob: Much appreciated.

In reply to Bob:

Why was it upgraded to E1 then with variations at E1 or E2/3?

In reply to Offwidth:

The original way up the flake is now E2/3 but by moving onto the front of the flake from about halfway up the crack allows the route to be done at E1 standard. I.e. the easiest way to get from The Oval ledge at the bottom of the flake to the belay at the top is E1. The HVS way does not exist anymore.

Bob

In reply to Bob:

"The easiest way up CB these days is HVS."

I take it that was a typo then? Just checking you hadn't got muddled or naughtier still were sandbagging him.

Offwidth@home

In reply to Anonymous:

Just a typo - The easiest way up CB these days is E1

Bob

In reply to Bob:

5a, 5b or 5c?

In reply to Father Faff:

Thinking of the holds generally on that bit of cliff probably 5b, anyway it is hard and exposed. A steady head will be more use than technical expertise at that standard as you will be climbing the odd 5c move on HVS routes.

Archangel in Oz

I did CB in May and found that a friend 6 was pretty (VERY) helpful above the bit where the chockstone fell out. I also find that a friend 5 below that was almost as helpful. I struggled to decide what grade it was but am famously bad at grading. The move above the rock scar is possibly hard 5b/5c.

My second (after taking out my gear) followed the new alternative way out left across the wall below where the chockstone fell out. It appeared pretty committing and not soft touch by any means.

So what ever way you go it is harder than HVS, get some big friends and go for it.

Good luck