/ DESTINATION GUIDE: 10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For Part 2

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UKC Articles 23 Jun 2015
Summit needle, Salbit., 3 kbHere's the final five in our ten routes worth travelling for series!

Are they any good? Have you done any of them? And where the hell is Hollanderen?!

5 routes, all classic adventures, all good enough to base your holiday around. What's not to like?

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=7414

1
Heike 23 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

I agree with all of them being absolute classics (apart from Hollanderen as I haven't done it, but it looks great, too! It's now on my list) I have got great memories of each of these climbs, each one absolutely superb, but I think my favourite one is West Ridge, possibly one of the best routes I have ever done.
TobyA 23 Jun 2015
jon 23 Jun 2015
In reply to Heike:

> but I think my favourite one is West Ridge, possibly one of the best routes I have ever done.

Heike, I think that reply alone is worth more than any list of alternative routes/comments that will inevitably spray forth now. For someone who's climbed all over the place to say that, then it's worth listening to. And that's the way I think about Fiesta del Biceps... that should be in there too - despite its fiddly little lower pitch that unfortunately rules it out as it's (supposedly) 7a. A bit of applied concentration or indeed a swift pull on a bolt would see any 6c+ leader over that bit and poised for the biggest lactic acid overdose... ever! Just brilliant!

1
In reply to jon:

Jon, I think I will be doing a couple of follow-ups - one with easier routes (5+ max) and one with perhaps some harder routes (6c+ and above) and maybe Fiesta will get in that one!!

Certainly one of my favourites!

If you have any ideas for either list and you have the time - I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Cheers,

Jack
Neil McA 25 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great choices jon, cant fault this list ! (I haven't done the Norwegian one but it sounds awesome). I keep going back to the Salbit year after year, there are many great routes on it, and everyone I take there goes back for more. classic stuff!
Jon Stewart 25 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article, thanks.

I'm hopefully coming to the end of a period personal austerity (in many ways) and will be able to get some foreign destinations on the list again. This provides ample inspiration.
natetan 26 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

These 'multipitches to travel for' are great bits of content.. I have already scheduled one in.
jon_gill1 26 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:
La Demande is a really good and intimidating climb, I found it very hard and felt it to be E2 and I love jamming, the crux pitch is technical and some what polished! The chimneys have huge run outs and were hellishly scary but what a route.
should be on everyone's tick list! I'm keen to tackle Motorhead next, iv'e heard that its a great route many times before but now its back on my radar.

Inspiring article

Thanks Jack
Post edited at 14:33
Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator26 Jun 2015
In reply to jon_gill1:

> La Demande is a really good and intimidating climb, I found it very hard and felt it to be E2 and I love jamming, the crux pitch is technical and some what polished! The chimneys have huge run outs and we hellishly scary but what a route.

I was discussing La Demande with Alan a couple of days ago and some of the comments in the Database - about it being E2 or F6b and people having 12 hour epics on it. Back in the day we did it in 4.5 hrs and my guidebook says HVS 5a ***. There was little fixed gear in it then too.
Sure it must be more polished now but I am baffled at the grade discrepancy!

Chris

GrahamD 26 Jun 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I'm baffled by La Demande grade as well. To me it felt like two or three HVS 5a stacked on top of each other.
John2 26 Jun 2015
In reply to GrahamD:

11 or 12, surely.
jon_gill1 26 Jun 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

We did it and it took us around 12 hours, granted it was a hot day and it is like glass in places but we really found it hard and others who have done it recently say the same! however a mate of mine said his friend did it 20 years ago and found it easy! Maybe the only way to settle it is for you to climb it now and see whats changed or if you were just 'ard bastards' back in the day!
Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator26 Jun 2015
In reply to jon_gill1:

I'm not sure we were 'ard but we were competent! We hitched from the camp-site - in out rock-shoes, didn't carry anything on the route other than a rack and a few sweets in out chalk-bags and galloped up it!

OK - maybe we were 'ard.

Chris

;-)
Peter Metcalfe 26 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

This is just the sort of article we need more of on UKC. Really inspiring and at a level normal climbers can aspire towards. I, and this may speak for a lot of folk here, am not particularly interested in yet another article on how a 12 year old has red-pointed a 9a / V11 (insert stupidly hard grade) sports route / boulder problem.
rpc 26 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really loved the article - has me daydreaming about a Europe road trip next summer. Instead of (in addition to!) doing something similar for harder/easier grades, you guys should do "10 More Multi-Pitch Routes..." or perhaps "50 Classic Climbs Of Europe" Love lists. I'm sure there are more gems in other parts of Europe that are worthy of inclusion.
Matt_b 26 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:
Flygende Hollender gets 6 not 6+ in the guide I have. Compared to routes in Lofoten of same grade, probably one could justify this. However, you'd have to scale up grades of other routes on Hollanderen. I don't remember any jugs on a roof, maybe that was why I found the roof on p2 hard. I haven't sampled enough of the cliff but at 6+ to 7+ I think there are a few more world classics on Hollanderen

Different rock and style but la Demande and Flygende Hollender don't feel the same grade! The second being much more technical.

Really must do Le ticket...
jon_gill1 28 Jun 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

ha yeah sounds like you had fun. By the way i'm enjoying slowly working through your 100 best limestone routes book! might have to hurry up before some of them start collapsing! As for the latter half of the book i might have to get 'ard'! ;-)
chris_B 28 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

I did Motorhead yesterday. Can confirm it is pretty good. Not sure I'd put it in a top 10 list though, but maybe I don't love granite as much as others! You don't get to a summit which is a big plus of a lot of the other routes in this list.
jon 28 Jun 2015
In reply to chris_B:

> I did Motorhead yesterday. Can confirm it is pretty good. Not sure I'd put it in a top 10 list though, but maybe I don't love granite as much as others! You don't get to a summit which is a big plus of a lot of the other routes in this list.

Oh, summits are just so yesterday! Neat place though, eh? Personally I'd put Septumania above Motorhead.
Jonas Wiklund 28 Jun 2015
In reply to Matt_b:

IMHO these routes on Baugen are all world class for their grade. In order:
1. Thanatos (Still my favourite multipitch ever)
2. Svart hav
3. Ikaros (Flygande Hollenderen with alt exit. pitch Haven't done original exit)
4. Gemini
5. Halvmånerisset.
6. Balongsnoppen/Krumtappen linkup

(I haven't done Rena Ragnarok [which I heard is good but somewhat scary] or one or two of the easier routes to the right)

The grades on Baugen are totally in line with other 80s hard climbers crags in Scandinavia.
vscott 29 Jun 2015
In reply to Matt_b:
Yep, not sure where the "+" came from... Brilliant place - Midtrutta would probably make the up to french 5+ list, and Thanatos the toughies list.
David Coley 19 Jul 2015
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

How about top 20 in the USA next?
David Coley 19 Jul 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> I was discussing La Demande with Alan a couple of days ago and some of the comments in the Database - about it being E2 or F6b and people having 12 hour epics on it. Back in the day we did it in 4.5 hrs and my guidebook says HVS 5a ***. There was little fixed gear in it then too.

> Sure it must be more polished now but I am baffled at the grade discrepancy!

HVS 5a. Did it back in the day. Done it since.
I think most who give it I a higher grade might not have done many routes of that form or length. But just a guess, and not wanting to upset anyone.

spidermac 19 Jul 2015
In reply to David Coley:

`87 - Hitched from campsite with rock boots & chalkbag in a polybag walked in & soloed La demande on sight
in about 1hour - didn`t seem too bad by normal Verdon sandbag standards!!!
jon_gill1 19 Jul 2015
In reply to David Coley:

Just comparing it to the many hvs E1 E2 routes I've done,havnt done that many big routes though!😊

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