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NEWSFLASH: 2019 IFSC World Championships Hachioji: Top 20 Combined Qualifiers

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 UKC News 17 Aug 2019
It's about to get even more exciting at the 2019 IFSC World Climbing Championships in Hachioji, Japan. Now that the three individual discipline rounds of Boulder, Lead and Speed have taken place, the 20 top-performing athletes across all three events have now been established. Rankings from each round are multiplied to calculate combined points (e.g. 1st x 2nd x 3rd = 6 points). Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey has qualified in 3rd place, putting herself in a strong position for making the top 7 and qualifying for possible Tokyo 2020 Olympic selection if she reaches the Combined final (top 8 from qualifying round.) Her teammate Will Bosi narrowly missed out, finishing in 25th place.

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 Coel Hellier 17 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

This is a good illustration of why "speed" doesn't fit in with the other two. 

The winner of the men's speed event came 49th and 61st in the other two, and the people who came 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th didn't even make the top 20 overall.

Meanwhile, Ondra (1st and 6th in lead and boulder) came 47th in speed, and Schubert (2nd and 3rd) came 48th.

1
 john arran 17 Aug 2019
In reply to Coel Hellier:

which means that speed won't have much effect on the overall result - yay!

and it'll have even less effect once speed is officially segregated in Paris in 2024

 JLS 17 Aug 2019
In reply to Coel Hellier:

There is an argument to be made that the points system was designed to disadvantage the speed climbers.

Post edited at 20:37
 Coel Hellier 17 Aug 2019
In reply to JLS:

> ... the points system was designed to disadvantage the speed climbers.

As in?:

IOC: You need to include speed whether you like it or not.

IFSC: OK, if we must, but we'll invent a scoring system so that they do badly.

In reply to JLS:

> There is an argument to be made that the points system was designed to disadvantage the speed climbers.

It's designed that people who only do well in one of the three disciplines does not do as well as someone who does well in two of the three disciplines. Anything else would be unfair. 

 JLS 17 Aug 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Oh, I don’t know. I’d argue that a scoring system basis on place in speed x place in lead OR boulder might be fairer. That way everyone gets a their specialty plus one they aren’t great at...

 Misha 17 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

“Shauna Coxsey has qualified in 3rd place, putting herself in a strong position for making the top 7 and qualifying for possible Tokyo 2020 Olympic selection if she reaches the Combined final (top 8 from qualifying round.)”

That’s great to hear but it’s mind boggling. She finished third but isn’t guaranteed a place because there are a few more hoops to jump through. Why couldn’t they have a simpler selection system... Anyway , best of luck to Shauna!

 joeldering 17 Aug 2019
In reply to john arran:

I think the Speed result is quite likely to effect who qualifies. Coming 1st in Speed, and last in Boulder and Lead seems quite likely to place you in the top 8 of the Combined (which I believe will be sufficient to qualify for the Olympics, provided that two Japanese climbers qualify).

I've really struggled to find clear information on this, though, so I could well be totally mistaken!

Post edited at 22:27
 JLS 18 Aug 2019
In reply to joeldering:

I’ve just done a little spread sheet experiment with the Women’s combined results.

If you replace all the scores with 1 to 20 points comparing the top 20 with just how they did against each other, ignoring all the others that have now been eliminated, the positions change a fair bit from the seeding positions shown on the App. With a lot of the speed climber now out of the equation the new multipliers produce a different result. This should be closer to the next stage results.

Note a Speed climber climbs into 3rd!

1 Garnbret SLO

2 Noguchi JPN

3 Miroslava POL

4 Nonaka JPN

5 Coxsey GBR

6 Ito JPN

7 Krampl SLO

8 Niu CHN

9 Seo KOR

10 Mori JPN

11 Kazbenova UKR

12 Joubert FRA

13 Raboutou USA

14 Pilz AUT

15 Chanourdie FRA

16 Kura JPN

17 Rakovec SLO

18 Yip CAN

19 Klingler SUI

20 Lukan SLO

In reply to JLS:

> Oh, I don’t know. I’d argue that a scoring system basis on place in speed x place in lead OR boulder might be fairer. That way everyone gets a their specialty plus one they aren’t great at...

Any system which doesn't treat all three disciplines the same could not possibly be considered fair. This proposal allows speed specialists to count their best two disciplines, while people whose worst discipline is speed are forced to count it!


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