THE TICKLIST: #58 Alpine Ticks, Bosi, Raboutou and Ondra

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 21 Jan 2022

In this week's Ticklist, we've got hard ascents from Will Bosi, Brooke Raboutou, and Adam Ondra...

Read more

 james mann 21 Jan 2022
In reply to UKC News:

The line was first climbed in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston and Don Whillans alongside a team of German climbers, who named the route after American mountaineer and US Air Force pilot John Harlin, who was killed while making an attempt at a direct line up the face earlier that year when he fell 2000ft from the summit and his rope broke. 

A few corrections here. 

The line was climbed by Jorg Lehne, Gunther Strobel, Roland Vottelor, Sigi Hupfauer and Dougal Haston. Much of the difficult artificial climbing was led by Layton Kor who didn’t summit. Bonington was there with a commission from the telegraph for photographs. He did some climbing on the face but had already backed out of the climb out of misgivings with Harlin. Harlin was killed during the climb when a fixed rope broke while jumaring. He was not an airforce pilot at this stage but had set up a climbing school in Leysin which still exists as ISM. The German and Scot/American teams began separately and then joined forces during the climb. Whillans had little to do with the climbing and was assisting Bonington and Peter Gillman. The climb was reported as being a race between the two teams. When asked about it, Whillans laughed, “If it’s a race, it’s the slowest race in the world.” 


Post edited at 22:34
In reply to UKC News:

Utterly unenviable challenge of collating 'news' in the climbing world (I think your making a good effort Nick!) but a pedantic comment from me would be that Will's extension of 'Zero', 'Below Zero" looks like a lower standing/crouching start rather than a sit. 

 scragrock 30 Jan 2022
In reply to peter.herd:

Pete is correct, it is a standing Roof start. 

Same wrong facing letterbox hold is the start to Phantom/Neg Prog low and B Zero + the project start to BFGeezus. 

Full picture topo's and descriptions for this area and others will be published in Stone Country's guide to Strathnairn. Hopefully coming out this year.

 Cog 30 Jan 2022
In reply to UKC News:

'Will is 22 and based in Edinburgh, Scotland.
In 2018, he reached the final of IFSC Chamonix Lead Climbing competition which was the first time a male had reached a lead final since 1998.'

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...