UKC

ARTICLE: A Scotsman's Duty

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC Articles 24 Feb 2021
Choughs gaze up at the Chamonix skyline from Plan de l'Aiguille.

Gordon Smith writes about Scottish winter and alpine climbing adventures from the mid-seventies...

In my day walking up the Allt a' Mhuilinn to the CIC Hut from the distillery was a horrid, mucky business. Bog-trotting was what we called it and often we wore wellies to keep our climbing boots, our socks, and our enthusiasms dry. There was this one time that I was bog-trotting up the hill and I came across one of those Englishmen. He said his name was Terry King; Terry to his pals but he was Kingy to me from that day on. He was wandering down in the late afternoon with his mate looking fed up after a day of mucking about doing nothing much at all. I was on my own which, being a teenaged climbing vagrant, I often was. I had a vague plan to do some soloing the next day but Kingy straight away made me, an utter stranger, promise to stay an extra day or two after and do some climbing with him when he came back up the hill. And so I did. I promised.



Read more
 3 Names 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great stuff

Really enjoyable read

Thanks

 lex 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Enjoyed that. Well written, and what climbing memories are made of.

Gone for good 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant stuff! 

 Sean Kelly 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

A long read, but a good one . They were great days when we had Terrors and the continentals didn't. Anything with a hint of snow or ice was ticked off in super quick time. I can recall a hut warden telling us that such a route was not in condition and had not been climbed that season. We returned that evening with the route ticked and all the local guides inspecting our Terrors. Early 70's I guess Gordon. Thanks for posting. 

 deepsoup 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Wonderful.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Excellent, I really enjoyed your article Gordon. Great to hear about your exploits with Dirty Alex and Terry King who I haven’t heard of for many many years. 

 steveb2006 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article. Had a failed attempt on the Grande Charmoz N face too

Steve

 maxd 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Fab read. Good memories of the Alps albeit much easier routes!

 Doug 24 Feb 2021

Thanks Gordon, or was it Jock ?

 bensilvestre 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyed that, thanks!

 danm 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Reminded me of one of the classic tales of yore written in Games Climbers Play and the like. Fantastic!

 TheGeneralist 24 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC

Weird. I get a 404 error....

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/a_scotsmans_duty-13388

Is that the right link?

Pastes in another link to compare....

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/series/board_training/using_boar...

Looks the same.

I'm confused.

Post edited at 21:38
 Colin Moody 24 Feb 2021
In reply to TheGeneralist:

I read the first part then tried to go back to it and got a 404 error, on safari. Went back to it using Firefox.

 John Cuthbert 25 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Evocative, funny, and beautifully crafted. Thank you, Gordon. 

 TheGeneralist 25 Feb 2021
In reply to Colin Moody:

Could you paste the URL into a reply so I can check ...

 TheGeneralist 25 Feb 2021
In reply to Colin Moody:

Ok, thanks. Very weird. Copied it into Samsung Internet and it worked fine.

Good story.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice yarn, to think Dirty Alex from such humble beginnings, later went on to make the first Alpine style ascent of the Harlin direct, on the N face of the Eiger.

 Michael Gordon 26 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

I seem to recall 'Dirty Alex' being Alex MacIntyre but no-one has referred to his last name so perhaps someone can confirm?

 Doug 26 Feb 2021
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Dirty Alex = Alex MacIntyre, many of that group had nicknames, wasn't Nick Colton 'Black Nick' ?

In reply to Doug:

> Dirty Alex = Alex MacIntyre, many of that group had nicknames, wasn't Nick Colton 'Black Nick' ?

Yes Nick Colton was (is) known as Black Nick as there was also Blonde Nick.


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...