/ ARTICLE: Acronyms for Leaders and Belayers (AFLAB)

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UKC Articles - on 27 Mar 2019
Mark Glaister on Siete (6b) at Túron East Face Welcome to the AFLAB - Acronyms for Leaders and Belayers

In the text and forum world of today you can save yourself a lot of time by using acronyms. Why, IMHO, write out a whole phrase when a few letters would do? FFS, it's obvious, innit? There seems no reason why we can't extend this idea for talking aloud. Don't waste time and risk confusion at the crag when you can shout a nice pithy acronym and save your breath. UKC is full of clever and witty people (AFAIK), so feel free to post up your offerings.



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Dandan - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

IHNGPFT - I Hope Nobody Got Paid For This

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lithos on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

tldr

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Paul Sagar - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Most amusing. And delighted to see David Hume is back from the dead, and rather than writing sceptical philosophy is gracing us with these witty insights.

LBOIDH - (pron. LeBoid): Log Book or it Didn't Happen

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deacondeacon - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Should have waited four days before posting  

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Kevster - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Yeah, I thought that too. 

The acronyms remind me somewhat of Welsh or maori when trying to read it. 

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jezb1 - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

WALOS.

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McHeath - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

BOLD

(Belay on, leader dead).

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Neil Williams - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Isn't "OK" the answer to absolutely anything while belaying?

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Kemics - on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to Neil Williams:

"........what!?"

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profitofdoom on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

IODINE – I’m Off Dear I Need ‘Elp

BATTERY – Be Aware To Tighten Every Runner Youth

BIG SMILE – Beware I’m Going South Me I’m Losing Everything

FOKKER – Falling Off Keep Krabs Every Runner

TART - Take All Rope Tighter

PARTY - Pull All Rope Tight Youth

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richardhaszko on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to profitofdoom:

Nice one. These are actual acronyms. The others are acrostics: an acronym has to spell a real word.

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profitofdoom on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to richardhaszko:

> Nice one. These are actual acronyms. The others are acrostics: an acronym has to spell a real word.

Thanks! clever me [accidentally]

Here's another:

BREXIT – Belayer, Reliably Engage X-rays In Time

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Gordon Stainforth - on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to profitofdoom:

How about  BREXIT: Belays rarely exist on extremely inferior turf?

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Gordon Stainforth - on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Actually, I had one I always used (seriously) from very early in my climbing - I even mention it in my Fiva book: LLLL. A way of reminding myself of the essentials for climbing well when leading - at least, what worked for me. They're also in a rough order of priority, or in the order you do them. Light: lightness of touch, on both feet and hands/arms. As light as possible, treat it all delicately cn brute force. Look: really look for all the holds; don't just assume and rush. Lean: a sort of vague reminder to be imaginative with your body position. Not just 'straight up and down' but, typically, leaning sideways a lot, or facing sideways, or leaning out with the upper body, etc, etc. Finally, Laugh. For me the most important final stage in the process. The thing's meant to be fun: relax, and stick a grin on your face, even if you don't feel like it. Quite extraordinary how that worked for me. Relax your face and the whole body relaxes ...

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McHeath - on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

The 4 L's are great - have to use them next time! 

One to work out:

Disaster Awaits Would-be Experts Sallying Rashly Onto Uncharted Terror-inducing Extreme Slabs ...

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Gordon Stainforth - on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to McHeath:

One thing I like about it is it's incredibly easy to remember, not as four Ls, but as 'Light, Look, Lean, Laugh.' Something to do with the changing vowel sounds.

Post edited at 14:52
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Misha - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

I don’t often say this as most of the articles these days are good or excellent but this one is pretty awful. It’s not funny or witty, just totally random and pointless. Didn’t even bother reading the list to the end. 

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Misha - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

How can they be in an order of priority if it’s four Ls? Or, rather, how do the four Ls remind you of the right order?

This thread is about 10 times better than the article. 

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Gordon Stainforth - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to Misha:

I just said above that I don't remember it as 4 Ls; I remember it as four words Light, Look, Lean, Laugh, and said that I found that remarkably easy to remember. I think you must have missed my post of 14:51.

Edit to add ... because obviously you missed it.

Post edited at 01:40
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full stottie on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to Misha:

> I don’t often say this as most of the articles these days are good or excellent but this one is pretty awful. It’s not funny or witty, just totally random and pointless. Didn’t even bother reading the list to the end. 

I tend to agree with you and the other critics, and its my doing. Sorry to have wasted any of your time. It seemed a good idea a while ago when I was fed up googling the meanings of the acrostics/acronyms on the forums, but it should have been strangled at birth. Still, two worthwhile charities will benefit. I'll stick to philosophy in future.

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profitofdoom on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to full stottie:

> .........it should have been strangled at birth....

I don't agree. I enjoy light-hearted and/or humorous articles and I enjoyed this one

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flaneur - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

DGUTDJ

On a serious note, does anyone know an acronym, abbreviation, memnomic, rhyme or similar for the pre-flight check: knot, harness (buckle) for the leader; anchor, belay device, screwgate for the belayer ? 

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john arran - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to flaneur:

You said it yourself - KBABS

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Harrison_Connie - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to flaneur:

> DGUTDJ

> On a serious note, does anyone know an acronym, abbreviation, memnomic, rhyme or similar for the pre-flight check: knot, harness (buckle) for the leader; anchor, belay device, screwgate for the belayer ? 

IDEAS can be used to remember the individual elements that make a safe anchor.

Independent, Directional, Equalised, Angle and Safe (final check).

I was also once told "check or deck" when checking my harness & tie in knot.

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profitofdoom on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to Harrison_Connie:

> I was also once told "check or deck" when checking my harness & tie in knot.

I really like "check or deck" - it's simple, it rhymes, it's binary, and it covers crucial safety points

It could be used for single-point abseils too.... you get just one shot with them and had better get it right (Signed, profitofdoom, survivor of an abseiling accident I don't like to talk about)

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Harrison_Connie - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to profitofdoom:

It was once said on a previous UKC article "It takes less time to check the abseil anchor again than to recover in hospital" - Check or deck is perhaps even more appropriate for abseiling.

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profitofdoom on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to Harrison_Connie:

> .....Check or deck is perhaps even more appropriate for abseiling.

It's certainly a good one for abseil points, I agree. Thanks

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