UKC

Reported by Bjorn Pohl:

Even though nothing should surprise us any more when it comes to Adam Ondra, he does it again! Two days ago at Covolo, he onsighted two F8c's, Una vida nomada and Nagay, and one F8b+ in one, yes one, day.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=47063

In reply to UKC News:

That yoof is amazing.

Sweet Jesus.

So,
day 1: onsights 2 8b+'s and an 8b,
day 2:onsights an 8b+ and 2 8c's,
day 3: first ascent, 2nd try, of an 8c+.

Thats some big numbers. is 8c now officially " not that hard".

That's feckin incredible.

In reply to GDes:

Have you seen him waltz up this 8c+/9a?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rMVXtGXeCk&feature=channel_page

In reply to GDes: It is incredible, but on a par with what you expect for someone of his standard.

If a climber who was regularly doing 8a+ onsighted 2 7c's in a day you'd say 'ok, he's going well'. If the same climber did a 7c+ on his second go you'd say the same thing. Good but not totally unexpected.

Andy F

One word !

PUNTER !

Has not every one on this board onsighted two 8c's and an 8b+ in one day !





Fookin hell ,the new bread this kid is !

In reply to andy farnell: i suppose, but 9a+ is a lot harder than 8a+!

In reply to andy farnell:

c'mon...it can't be both incredible and on par.....has anyone ever onsighted two 8c's in a day?

In reply to GDes: yes the same as the difference between 7b+ and 8b+ try Bored of the Lies 7b+ and Mecca 8b+ Or New Dawn 7c and Unjustified 8c

In reply to UKC News:
Awesome

In reply to UKC News:

A truly amazing performance from Ondra, he is taking sport climbing into the 21st century redefining what can be achieved and done. I saw Dave Graham's lecture last year in Kendal and he summarised his talk by giving a personal appraisal of some of the worlds top climbers, Andrada, Sharma, Usobiaga, Ramonet - he stated his personal hero was Ondra -praise indeed!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Went and found vids of him climbing action directe and la rambla.

He climbs quickly and misses clipping bolts. Dave Mac did this in committed to avoid the pump on a route. It seems to me that he needs to keep going quickly to complete the routes. Not a failing but maybe a necessity at his tender age?

In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:

Ha! Brilliant.

He's in the top five best sport climbers in the world and probably the future of hard climbing and you're critiquing his climbing style.

Love it!

In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:


EagleRiver - No different to passing comment on Beckham.

Grumpywhatsit - climbing quickly is climbing efficiently - awesome to watch top climbers doing this on the onsight - its a strength not a failing at any age.

In reply to Eagle River:

Apologies, didn't realise I was not qualified to comment on the style of a climber.

In reply to Simon Lee:


My thoughts were that there are top climbers with strength and power that cruise a route like a long distance run. Adam shows how to do it like a 100m sprint. Reading a training for comp climbing article, it talks about the two different styles. I just wondered if he's built for speed as his age. As Eagle River has pointed out I'm questioning his climbing style. As I'm not a well known top climber I am not allowed an opinion so I'll leave it at that and not bother with this or similar threads again.

In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:

>Reading a training for comp climbing article, it talks about the two different styles

Is it online - if so can you link it

>I am not allowed an opinion so I'll leave it at that and not bother with this or similar threads again

Living up to your user name?

In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:

If I had a handbag I'd be raising it with an accompanying "Oooooooh" sound.

I was merely amused that you'd found something to question about Ondra's style, I just sit back and think holy cr@p that kid is unbelievable.

I'm not implying you shouldn't have an opinion and sorry if you thought I was having a go.

In reply to andy farnell:

Really? When was the last time you:

day 1: onsights 2 7b's and an 7a+,
day 2:onsights an 7b and 2 7b+'s,
day 3: first ascent, 2nd try, of an 7c.

(Based on the on-sight grades on your profile).

Ondra's on-sight level is obviously amazing, but to me it's the volume that's really impressive.

In reply to Tom Briggs:

i agree....still nobody has actually said if anybody has done 2 8c os in one day before.

i think not because most of the 8c os's reported in the past have been a single event eg Yuji on White Zombie and Tomas on Pata Negra.

In reply to Tom Briggs: In reply to andy farnell:


Hey Andy. The gauntlet has been thrown. A long weekend in Portland or a trip to Kalymnos should do it.

In reply to Simon Lee:
Anything under 10 days is onsight in Andy's book.

In reply to Tom Briggs: Agree with Tom on this, Ondra is similar in terms of regular top OS grade with Patxi/Ramonet/Mzarek/Sharma, however it is the sheer volume of hard routes he is redpointing and onsighting, with incredible speed and efficiency! Nothing seems to tax him too much which suggests he is operating slightly below what he is blatently capable of....

Plus hes not just an endurance climber, having ticked most if the classic 8c/8c+'s/9a's in the Frankenjura (I remember watching him cruise Infinity 8c+, Frankenjura a couple of years ago!).......I'm sure he is going to push redpoint standards over the next 5/10 years if he can find a suitably inspiring project(s).........

In reply to Morgan Woods: Patxi has achieved similarly impressive OS feats over the last 12months....

In one day last August....
08/08/17 Dioi 8a San martin de val,onsera OS
08/08/17 regresión lineal 8a San martin de val,onsera OS
08/08/17 Burka 8a San martin de val,onsera OS
08/08/17 dont work 8a+ san martin de val,onsera OS
08/08/17 Mijo r2 8a+ san martin de val,onsera OS
08/08/17 por bulería 8b/+ san martin de val,onsera OS
08/08/17 armagedon 8b san martin de val,onsera OS
08/08/17 el insociable 8b san martin de val,onsera OS

Over 2 days last July....
08/07/16 Trummelbach 8b+ Gimmenwald OS
08/07/15 ? 8b+ Urnersee OS
08/07/15 Omerta 8c Urnersee OS

In reply to UKC News:

Can someone let me know what this kid has for breakfast in the morning?

In reply to north country boy: es maquina! the impression i get is that he goes about all of this very quietly and seems pretty unruffled by anything he does. almost as if it wasnt any bother and that hes waiting for something proper to try.

anyone know if hes been to Chilam Balam (sp?) ?

after too many tries i fell off last move on I've Been a Bad Bad Boy at Pen Trwyn yesterday evening - im sure this would trip an over-confident Ondra up

In reply to Tom Briggs: More to the point (as Serpico put it so nicely) when is the last time I onsighted anything! I don't onsight, but if I did spend time doing that I'm sure I could up my grades and volume.

Andy F

In reply to UKC News:
I wonder when/if he'll go and have a play on Jumbo Love.

Ondra likes to repeat hard routes quickly, he doesn't tend to spend any great length of time working a particular route or project. If he devoted a few weeks/months to working on one of Sharma's 9bs I wouldn't be suprised if he repeated them.

In reply to james oswald:

It'd be sweet if he got a chance to, however its not the most accessible crag for a 16 year old kid from eastern europe!

I heard Ethan Pringle was having a bit of a play on it recently.

In reply to Eagle River:


That would be over 2 years ago before Sharma did it. Pringle now has a fairly serious shoulder injury but is hopeful to make a recovery back to full fitness soon.

In reply to andy farnell:

Andy - you need to take some happy pills.

Ondra (and in my book Alex Honnold) are the two of the most impressive, but more importantly inspirational top rock climbers operating at the moment.

Onsighting 8c - amazing. Very very impressive.

Watch him redpoint his 9a's - blows me away and at such a young age.

Mick

In reply to teddy:

Good to know my finger is on the pulse.....

In reply to Eagle River:

Clark Mountain season has begun.

If you fancy a chance, directions here:

Clark Mountain - the best limestone in America.... with a photo of Jumbo Love.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=458

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Note at the beginning I said 'incredible'. Which it is. But still not unexpected from someone who is clearly at the top of the game. No need for happy pills, I've got happy Pils instead

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:


So what is your point?

Is this not news?

Is this not impressive?

Is this not to be applauded?

What is your point?

Is this a clever bastard prediction game?

Well yeah, great ascent. Inspirational dude. Buy yeah only to be expected.

Bit sad that isn't it?

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: So what is your point?


The point Andy was making that onsighting two 8c's in a day is consistent, or put another way not unexpected, from someone who can quickly redpoint 9a/9a+.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yes

Did I say it wasn't?

Of course it is.

See above.

No.

Correct

Why? Because what I said is true? Sad but true (que Metallica...)

What Ondra is doing is setting the standard, along with Sharma, Ty Landman, Paxti unwhateverhisnameis, etc. It is to be expected that at sometime he will walk upto a crag, tear down two 8c's and walk away. Yes, it is newsworthy, to be applauded etc etc, but it is not to be unexpected.

9a will be onsighted in the future, as will 9a+, as will... Yes when they happen it will be inspirational and newsworthy, but not unexpected.


Andy F