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Saturday night's spectacular La Sportiva Legends Only in front of 500 people at Klättercentret in Stockholm was in many ways the perfect show with the best climbers in the world performing at their best in a show that was almost too dramatic.In the end Adam Ondra came out victorious ahead of...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64655
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Silly question, but how can Ondra 'flash' the 5th problem if he had 2 hours to work it the day before? I assume you mean he got it first go on the day
Silly question, but how can Ondra 'flash' the 5th problem if he had 2 hours to work it the day before? I assume you mean he got it first go on the day
In reply to Si dH: No, he just exposed his genitals to the holds. What's your defination of flash?
In reply to felixyoung: Lol!
In reply to Si dH:
You've mistaken flash for onsight. Although this is techincally a "retroflash". Shame there is no lycra involved...
You've mistaken flash for onsight. Although this is techincally a "retroflash". Shame there is no lycra involved...
In reply to Cornish Cream: Retro flash? After working it the day before? I don't think so..
In reply to Si dH: Haha, yes, of course it should read "first try of the day". My mistake.
//Björn
//Björn
In reply to Cornish Cream:
If my memory serves me, it's a technical pre-flash according to the IFSC guidelines...
If my memory serves me, it's a technical pre-flash according to the IFSC guidelines...
In reply to Cornish Cream:
No I haven't. You cant 'flash' something if you've ever tried any of the moves, full stop. The difference between flash and onsight is knowledge of the moves, not having tried them. In this case, all the problems have been worked.
Not that any of this really matters. It's amazing that Ondra is the best in the world at indoor bouldering as well as long outdoor stamina routes.
> (In reply to Si dH)
>
> You've mistaken flash for onsight. Although this is techincally a "retroflash". Shame there is no lycra involved...
>
> You've mistaken flash for onsight. Although this is techincally a "retroflash". Shame there is no lycra involved...
No I haven't. You cant 'flash' something if you've ever tried any of the moves, full stop. The difference between flash and onsight is knowledge of the moves, not having tried them. In this case, all the problems have been worked.
Not that any of this really matters. It's amazing that Ondra is the best in the world at indoor bouldering as well as long outdoor stamina routes.
This sounds to me like a very cool format for boulder comps. For one, it means the setters can set much tougher boulder problems. For two, it must have moved along quite fast. For three, it's less about nearly-instant onsighting (which is what the current WC format rewards).
Very interested to hear what the climbers themselves thought of the format.
Very interested to hear what the climbers themselves thought of the format.
In reply to mallory45: The climbers themselves thought it was awesome, and at least two said it was the most fun they had ever had on a comp, so we'll keep using it.
In reply to Si dH
Don't you mean the best out of five competitiors, all of whom are sponsored by La Sportiva?
Quite a narrow field don't you think?
> (In reply to Cornish Cream)
> [...]
> [...]
> Not that any of this really matters. It's amazing that Ondra is the best in the world at indoor bouldering as well as long outdoor stamina routes.
Don't you mean the best out of five competitiors, all of whom are sponsored by La Sportiva?
Quite a narrow field don't you think?
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Yes I agree all world class comps should include tight and bright Lycra and you will get extra points the tighter and brighter your Lycra is!
And despite it being a narrow field I don't think anyone will disagree that Ondra is one of the word's best climbers, in a field where it's hard to single climbers out and define THE best one. Too bad he's not hot :P
Yes I agree all world class comps should include tight and bright Lycra and you will get extra points the tighter and brighter your Lycra is!
And despite it being a narrow field I don't think anyone will disagree that Ondra is one of the word's best climbers, in a field where it's hard to single climbers out and define THE best one. Too bad he's not hot :P
In reply to mallory45: This is a format that has been used at Arco in the past. Not for the World Champs or Pre Event in 2010 but prior to this. In 2007 I competed in this format and won!! It is a great and interesting format, fast and exciting. Dont think it would work too well for 100 climbers plus!! Both formats are good to compete in.
In reply to mallory45:
Would be better if they stopped describing climbers as young as Ondra as "Legends". All hail marketing but I think it's a bit early to call that one, talented though he demonstrably is...
> Very interested to hear what the climbers themselves thought of the format.
Would be better if they stopped describing climbers as young as Ondra as "Legends". All hail marketing but I think it's a bit early to call that one, talented though he demonstrably is...
In reply to Nigel R:
I'm not aware that the status of legend has an age restriction. And for someone (Ondra) who is arguably the highest-performing rock climber to grace the crags of this earth, I think legend if a fitting title.
I reckon it'd be an awesome climbing spectacle to have five of the best go head to head in what's essentially a demonstration (of freakish talent and strength)event rather than an out-and-out comp.
> (In reply to mallory45)
>
> [...]
>
> Would be better if they stopped describing climbers as young as Ondra as "Legends". All hail marketing but I think it's a bit early to call that one, talented though he demonstrably is...
>
> [...]
>
> Would be better if they stopped describing climbers as young as Ondra as "Legends". All hail marketing but I think it's a bit early to call that one, talented though he demonstrably is...
I'm not aware that the status of legend has an age restriction. And for someone (Ondra) who is arguably the highest-performing rock climber to grace the crags of this earth, I think legend if a fitting title.
I reckon it'd be an awesome climbing spectacle to have five of the best go head to head in what's essentially a demonstration (of freakish talent and strength)event rather than an out-and-out comp.
In reply to gaz parry: I agree it wouldn't work for qualifying at WC events. But what about finals?
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Flash this, retro that, limited field the other - did you see that move and problem at the 1:00:00 marker- Absolutley awesome. Fantastic stuff
Flash this, retro that, limited field the other - did you see that move and problem at the 1:00:00 marker- Absolutley awesome. Fantastic stuff
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Was that the entire list of competitors? Did Michele Caminati or Nalle Hukkataival not make an appearance?
In reply to Steve13: Yes, that's the line-up. I will do what I can to get a more competitive field next year
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: what are the chances of a list of the comp playlist. couple tunes in there i wouldnt mind having...
In reply to tom russell: that was cool. Still in awe at ondra, he made some of the strongest boulderers in the world look like punters.
In reply to tom russell:
Here are the songs, but not in the same order they were played.
http://open.spotify.com/user/robo/playlist/0Jl1H2zw6N6guj7XODTwVR
Regs
Robin
Here are the songs, but not in the same order they were played.
http://open.spotify.com/user/robo/playlist/0Jl1H2zw6N6guj7XODTwVR
Regs
Robin
In reply to flipper: you are wrong, the age limit is 30. You never hear Micheal Phelps, the greatest Olympian ever, being touted as a legend do you?
I just watched the start of the video so funny. Whos idea was it to put all the climbers in a stretch limo? And then reverse it into a place that is to small where lots of people are sitting. Then the cherry on the cake, Daniel Woods coming out to "America, f*ck yeah!" a song taking the piss out of America
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Well, apart from the incredible bouldering skills on display (which is indisputable), that was totally cringeworthy viewing. A dud of a primary compere, backed up by a matching depute, and editing which made my teeth hurt. To describe it as 'amateurish' would do a disservice to amateurs. It should have been at least an hour shorter than it was, so thank goodness for the fast forward facility. Really poor IMO.
Well, apart from the incredible bouldering skills on display (which is indisputable), that was totally cringeworthy viewing. A dud of a primary compere, backed up by a matching depute, and editing which made my teeth hurt. To describe it as 'amateurish' would do a disservice to amateurs. It should have been at least an hour shorter than it was, so thank goodness for the fast forward facility. Really poor IMO.
In reply to Fraser:
I agree completely.
Whoever thought this was good at an hour and a half long needs their head examining.
I agree completely.
Whoever thought this was good at an hour and a half long needs their head examining.
In reply to remus:
I saw things very differently. The only problem that stopped Woods was a "how long is your thigh contest" on the first problem, where he couldn't manage that long sideways foot dyno. In comparison, on the one non "circus trick problem", problem 5, Woods looked completely in control and composed at the top, where everyone else, even Ondra, was looking gassed out and desperate, and all but Ondra and Woods fell off.
I saw things very differently. The only problem that stopped Woods was a "how long is your thigh contest" on the first problem, where he couldn't manage that long sideways foot dyno. In comparison, on the one non "circus trick problem", problem 5, Woods looked completely in control and composed at the top, where everyone else, even Ondra, was looking gassed out and desperate, and all but Ondra and Woods fell off.
In reply to Fraser: I think that is a little harsh, the interviews where pretty poor. It seemed like the guy was just thinking off the top of his head what to ask. A little bit of preparation wouldn't hurt. But overall I thought it was a really good video, granted it could have been shorter but I would prefer to have everything and choose what I see.
The point about Woods is somewhat valid and somewhat floored. Yeah the first problem was no good for him, even going up to that full body compression was tough, for the rest it looked easy. But out of all the problems it was only one specific type of problem that suited him. I do agree that some were circus tricks but he actually completed both of them. "Them" being the swing and the "dyno to slip off and grab another hold" move. He is an undoubted talent but seems quite suited to red-pointing problems into submission and is not so suited to competition climbing.
The point about Woods is somewhat valid and somewhat floored. Yeah the first problem was no good for him, even going up to that full body compression was tough, for the rest it looked easy. But out of all the problems it was only one specific type of problem that suited him. I do agree that some were circus tricks but he actually completed both of them. "Them" being the swing and the "dyno to slip off and grab another hold" move. He is an undoubted talent but seems quite suited to red-pointing problems into submission and is not so suited to competition climbing.
In reply to dizzy77: dizzy, it looked to me like Daniel was the strongest but also the least flexible. And I thought he failed on the first problem because of that lack of flexibility.
Overall, Ondra looked to me like he was in a higher orbit than all the other climbers.
Overall, Ondra looked to me like he was in a higher orbit than all the other climbers.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Christ on a bike, am I the only one that thinks these people need to learn how to edit footage?
Christ on a bike, am I the only one that thinks these people need to learn how to edit footage?
In reply to jonny2vests:
Nope, see my post at 20:30 last night.
In reply to Jiduvah
Really? 12 minutes in and I'm still watching the rear end of a limo slowly backing into the place. That's surely not a good sign! I bet all 5 climbers were embarassed, standing there on the mat like some freak show exhibits, while the Master of Ceremonies only made matters worse. Without a doubt, it was one of the worst bouldering videos I've ever seen. (apart from the actual bouldering, as I said earlier) Sorry.
>
> Christ on a bike, am I the only one that thinks these people need to learn how to edit footage?
> Christ on a bike, am I the only one that thinks these people need to learn how to edit footage?
Nope, see my post at 20:30 last night.
In reply to Jiduvah
> I think that is a little harsh, the interviews where pretty poor. It seemed like the guy was just thinking off the top of his head what to ask. A little bit of preparation wouldn't hurt. But overall I thought it was a really good video, granted it could have been shorter but I would prefer to have everything and choose what I see.
Really? 12 minutes in and I'm still watching the rear end of a limo slowly backing into the place. That's surely not a good sign! I bet all 5 climbers were embarassed, standing there on the mat like some freak show exhibits, while the Master of Ceremonies only made matters worse. Without a doubt, it was one of the worst bouldering videos I've ever seen. (apart from the actual bouldering, as I said earlier) Sorry.
Thought it was pretty good vid to be honest. I preferred the fact that it wasn't slickly edited, any boring bits (interviews and stretch limo) I just forwarded past.
I am kind of tired of uber slick editing that makes everything look easy and everything in slow motion. Was good to see the whole comp and see some of them struggle and fail and then get to the top.
Overall I thought Ondra looked a bit better than everyone else, although that Russian guy Dimitry was also a monster. Amazing that he is mostly into routes and still manages to keep the kind of power necessary for those boulder comps!
I am kind of tired of uber slick editing that makes everything look easy and everything in slow motion. Was good to see the whole comp and see some of them struggle and fail and then get to the top.
Overall I thought Ondra looked a bit better than everyone else, although that Russian guy Dimitry was also a monster. Amazing that he is mostly into routes and still manages to keep the kind of power necessary for those boulder comps!
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Is it bad that I dreamt I almost did the first problem last night? To be honest, the video was ridiculously long, I mainly skipped through to the bits of Ondra totally crushing the problems and watching one or two of the others goes.
Ondra is in a league of his own, he looks a thousand times more chilled than all the others on the problems, and was climbing more like a route climber than a boulderer, and still cruising! He is a total legend!
Ondra is in a league of his own, he looks a thousand times more chilled than all the others on the problems, and was climbing more like a route climber than a boulderer, and still cruising! He is a total legend!
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
I thought seeing all the climbers on all their attempts was great. You get to see the contrast in styles and how each climber moved rather than the usual editing which only gives seconds long snapshots. I really enjoyed watching the climbing and the comp format, being able to watch a single climber at a time.
There was a lot of padding however, the limo was daft, and the attempted interviews were embarrassingly poor, the hosts appeared to have done little or no preparation. I could understand if the english speaking sections weren't well done, but you could tell from the crowd's reaction that there wasn't much of interest being said most of the time, and that was from skipping through most of it.
I thought seeing all the climbers on all their attempts was great. You get to see the contrast in styles and how each climber moved rather than the usual editing which only gives seconds long snapshots. I really enjoyed watching the climbing and the comp format, being able to watch a single climber at a time.
There was a lot of padding however, the limo was daft, and the attempted interviews were embarrassingly poor, the hosts appeared to have done little or no preparation. I could understand if the english speaking sections weren't well done, but you could tell from the crowd's reaction that there wasn't much of interest being said most of the time, and that was from skipping through most of it.
In reply to Fraser:
Yeah, wtf?
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Nope, see my post at 20:30 last night.
>
>
> In reply to Jiduvah
>
> [...]
>
> Really? 12 minutes in and I'm still watching the rear end of a limo slowly backing into the place.
> [...]
>
> Nope, see my post at 20:30 last night.
>
>
> In reply to Jiduvah
>
> [...]
>
> Really? 12 minutes in and I'm still watching the rear end of a limo slowly backing into the place.
Yeah, wtf?
In reply to Fraser:
Yeah, wtf? I don't think they'd really thought that through.
And what the hell was going on with the lighting?
The climbing was good, but I thin some of the contestants weren't overly impressed with the format. Sportiva need a checkup from the neck up.
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Nope, see my post at 20:30 last night.
>
>
> In reply to Jiduvah
>
> [...]
>
> Really? 12 minutes in and I'm still watching the rear end of a limo slowly backing into the place.
> [...]
>
> Nope, see my post at 20:30 last night.
>
>
> In reply to Jiduvah
>
> [...]
>
> Really? 12 minutes in and I'm still watching the rear end of a limo slowly backing into the place.
Yeah, wtf? I don't think they'd really thought that through.
And what the hell was going on with the lighting?
The climbing was good, but I thin some of the contestants weren't overly impressed with the format. Sportiva need a checkup from the neck up.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
If the limo was supposed to be ironic then kudos to La Sportiva.
Problem is... I don't think it was
If the limo was supposed to be ironic then kudos to La Sportiva.
Problem is... I don't think it was
In reply to tri-nitro-toulumne:
If you'd listened the music they played, when the climbers were announced.. you'd get the hint.
Yeah, it was not super slick editing. But then again, not everything must be of the fast-cut MTV generation action.
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC)
>
> If the limo was supposed to be ironic then kudos to La Sportiva.
>
> Problem is... I don't think it was
>
> If the limo was supposed to be ironic then kudos to La Sportiva.
>
> Problem is... I don't think it was
If you'd listened the music they played, when the climbers were announced.. you'd get the hint.
Yeah, it was not super slick editing. But then again, not everything must be of the fast-cut MTV generation action.
In reply to jonny2vests:
What gives you that impression? to quote Bjorn (from further up this very thread):
"The climbers themselves thought it was awesome, and at least two said it was the most fun they had ever had on a comp, so we'll keep using it."
> The climbing was good, but I thin some of the contestants weren't overly impressed with the format.
What gives you that impression? to quote Bjorn (from further up this very thread):
"The climbers themselves thought it was awesome, and at least two said it was the most fun they had ever had on a comp, so we'll keep using it."
In reply to remus:
It's not exactly the best career move is it, slagging off your next pay check, don't be so naive.
It was a sad triumph of theatre over climbing.
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> What gives you that impression? to quote Bjorn (from further up this very thread):
>
> "The climbers themselves thought it was awesome, and at least two said it was the most fun they had ever had on a comp, so we'll keep using it."
> [...]
>
> What gives you that impression? to quote Bjorn (from further up this very thread):
>
> "The climbers themselves thought it was awesome, and at least two said it was the most fun they had ever had on a comp, so we'll keep using it."
It's not exactly the best career move is it, slagging off your next pay check, don't be so naive.
It was a sad triumph of theatre over climbing.
In reply to jonny2vests: I doubt La Sportiva are so stupid as to intimidate their own sponsored athletes if they offer genuine criticism. Don't be so jaded.
(I do partially agree with the theatre criticism, I skipped past the whole limo scene as it was painfully cringe worthy. I thought the climbing itself was very entertaining though.)
(I do partially agree with the theatre criticism, I skipped past the whole limo scene as it was painfully cringe worthy. I thought the climbing itself was very entertaining though.)
In reply to Fraser: what a load of crap you talk. it was an amazing video and an amazing show. whats wrong with giving us the whole video, where u have the option to skip thru to the climbing if u so wish. perhaps the fact it was in swedish pissed u off. i thought the format was great, the problems were great. didnt see anything cringeworthy, unless u regard climbers being slightly shy in interviews as cringeworthy. seriously take a happy pill or something bro...
In reply to Alejandro S:
I think you mean you disagree with my opinion.
See comment above. The climbing was the only amazing thing about it.
The problem I had with it was that the bulk of the video was of a seriously low quality. I have certain standards as I'm sure others do and frankly this didn't come close to what I'd expect. Franco Cookson's recent video of his 3 punter mates was miles better.
Believe me, I tried to do that, but when the progress bar for a 100 minute film is only 100mm long on screen, it means a lot of trial and error to filter out that choss.
Not at all, I'm sure the compere was better in his native tongue. He was just a dud in terms of being an interviewer and presenter.
Me too...
...me too...
As it says in the advert: "should've gone to Specsavers"
I'm happy, don't worry - I just thought that video was crap. And for the record, I'm not your bro.
> (In reply to Fraser) what a load of crap you talk.
I think you mean you disagree with my opinion.
> it was an amazing video and an amazing show.
See comment above. The climbing was the only amazing thing about it.
> whats wrong with giving us the whole video,
The problem I had with it was that the bulk of the video was of a seriously low quality. I have certain standards as I'm sure others do and frankly this didn't come close to what I'd expect. Franco Cookson's recent video of his 3 punter mates was miles better.
> ...where u have the option to skip thru to the climbing if u so wish.
Believe me, I tried to do that, but when the progress bar for a 100 minute film is only 100mm long on screen, it means a lot of trial and error to filter out that choss.
> perhaps the fact it was in swedish pissed u off.
Not at all, I'm sure the compere was better in his native tongue. He was just a dud in terms of being an interviewer and presenter.
> i thought the format was great
Me too...
> the problems were great
...me too...
> didnt see anything cringeworthy, unless u regard climbers being slightly shy in interviews as cringeworthy.
As it says in the advert: "should've gone to Specsavers"
> seriously take a happy pill or something bro...
I'm happy, don't worry - I just thought that video was crap. And for the record, I'm not your bro.
In reply to Alejandro S:
What Fraser said.
Are you some sort of indoor competition fetishist? That's my only explanation for your justification of this pish.
What Fraser said.
Are you some sort of indoor competition fetishist? That's my only explanation for your justification of this pish.
All these comments and not one about woods not matching the last hold on problem No.5 what a nube!
In reply to john nightingale: I was more impressed with Ondra shaking out on a move Paul Robinson couldn't do. Problem 3 I think
In reply to Alejandro S:
Are you mental?
> (In reply to Fraser) what a load of crap you talk. it was an amazing video and an amazing show.
Are you mental?
In reply to murdster: only a deeply cynical and pessimistic person could find a way to criticise an unedited film of an exciting new concept in bouldering competitions featuring some of the worlds best climbers including adam ondra, daniel woods and paul robinson. the fact the presenters 'talked too long' or the limo was 'cringeworthy' or whatever else is not an issue. it was the quality of competitors and the problems that made it what it was. anything in between can be filtered out by the viewer depending on how much time they have.
to simplify it for u. ur basically getting a buffet for the price of one meal, and complaining u only wanted one meal.
to simplify it for u. ur basically getting a buffet for the price of one meal, and complaining u only wanted one meal.
In reply to Jiduvah:
Not quite the point I was making, all comps require a 2 hand match on the last hold for the ascent to count, forgeting or posing is no excuse.
> (In reply to john nightingale) I was more impressed with Ondra shaking out on a move Paul Robinson couldn't do. Problem 3 I think
Not quite the point I was making, all comps require a 2 hand match on the last hold for the ascent to count, forgeting or posing is no excuse.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
I cannot believe this thread...
Bjorn, thanks for the free video. I was blown away by Ondra. He was so good. Dmitry... What a monster. The problems all looked awesome. Great set-up. And as usual I'm very greatful for the free footage!
I cannot believe this thread...
Bjorn, thanks for the free video. I was blown away by Ondra. He was so good. Dmitry... What a monster. The problems all looked awesome. Great set-up. And as usual I'm very greatful for the free footage!
In reply to john nightingale: ah ok, my bad. But I guess my point is still valid
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