Adam Ondra made swift work of Barnabé Fernandez's 82m marathon of a route at Villanueva del Rosario, near Málaga in southern Spain. Barnabé worked it for three season before he made the first ascent. It should be mentioned the ascent is surrounded by a lot of...
This item has now been updated with comments from Adam Ondra
In reply to Quarryboy: All he needs to do now is quick repeats of Akira, Overshadow and Sharma's route King Lines or whatever it's called, onsight Realization - then he can start putting up some proper hard routes - 9b+ and 9c are calling I think.
In reply to Quarryboy: Well by by estimation the only sport routes of significance left are Realization (which he said hes saving for the flash),Jumbo Love, Overshadow, Es Pontas, Big Bang, Hubble and Liquid Ambar. After that he's done it all and he's only 18! I've never seen anything like it, has there ever been anyone so far ahead of the pack?
I wonder what odds william hill would give on him knocking these off this year?
> (In reply to Quarryboy) Well by by estimation the only sport routes of significance left are Realization (which he said hes saving for the flash),Jumbo Love, Overshadow, Es Pontas, Big Bang, Hubble and Liquid Ambar. After that he's done it all and he's only 18! I've never seen anything like it, has there ever been anyone so far ahead of the pack?
There are dozens of routes out there at 9a or harder.
I'm sure he won't be running out of them any time soon. At least for the next week or so... Can't wait for the video!
really makes me wonder what would happen if the other top World Cup competitors focused on repeating routes and establishing new routes on a full time basis instead of only doing it in their off season and between comps.
In reply to mallory45: He might have seen a photo or two of it as well but I guess he would be happy with the flash!! So impressive his achievements considering he can only just order a pint legally, perhaps that will be his downfall though I doubt it.
> Ondra has already climbed around Realization. So is the onsight still available to him?
I heard that whenever he was in the vicinity of Realisation he wore blinkers. When anyone was trying the route and he was close by he also put ear plugs in.
His friends have to lead him underneath the route by the hand with a black hood on his head.
I for one would be deeply dissapointed if Ondra claims an OS if he flashes realisation.
In reply to Quarryboy: Sorry guys yes I know there's a few out there yet that he hasn't done but lets face it there isn't that much and given the fact hes only 18 and the speed hes knocking these off there's not that much out there left. It's incredible. Put it like this given what he's already done there's not much out there that you'd think he might fail on.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Assuming he did actually climb it, I think Chilam Balam was still way ahead of its time - possibly 2 grades above anything else when Barnabé climbed it. It can't have been easy choosing a grade for it when the grades in-between hadn't been set yet.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
I think Ondra should come try Overshadow and Violent New Breed.
He'd surely be able to do them but it'd be good if they actually got some repeats and a solid confirmation of the grades.
Anyway, I wonder what Ondra could do on the gritstone?
> (In reply to Quarryboy) Well by by estimation the only sport routes of significance left are Realization (which he said hes saving for the flash),Jumbo Love, Overshadow, Es Pontas, Big Bang, Hubble and Liquid Ambar.
What about some of the JD routes like Total Eclipse at Malham?
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC)
> I think Ondra should come try Overshadow and Violent New Breed.
> He'd surely be able to do them but it'd be good if they actually got some repeats and a solid confirmation of the grades.
He tried Overshadow last year. He said it was 'at least 9a+'
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> according to this page, 271 routes with a proposed grade of 9a or above.
> from his 8a.nu scorecard Ondra had done 47 routes at 9a and above. Which is mind boggling, but still leaves a fair bit more to go at.
Interesting list which looks pretty up to date - at the 9a+ and above end AO ststs are looking ridiculous,
31 routes of 9a+ (including 3 at 9a/b) - AO has done 9
9 routes at 9b (including Chilam Balam) - AO has done 4, 3 this year.
So he's got 27 routes left in the world that might challenge him a bit, at a nominal 3 days a route (doesn't sound too challenging given his current performance) that's 81 climbing days left to tick the world
In reply to ksjs:
I took this as 4th session, as in he concentrated on it for 4 visits to the crag or something. The comments about the kneebars are interesting, presumably this make the route very morpo and gives a bit of a reason why other really strong climbers haven't managed to get up it?
C'mon, you just don't speak the language. When the top boys say 4th attempt about a route like this, they mean 4th redpoint attempt. I don't imagine they even start by trying to onsight the thing; it's too tiring a way to go about it.
Absolutely incredible feat! I deffinately think that Realization could be in his sights for the OS/Flash this year.
As for the comments about Liquid Ambar and Hubble (both awsome test pieces in their own right), do folk genuinely think these will prove to be any trouble for him? The guy has onsighted 5 8c+ (One which was wet!) and flashed V14. I really cant see these troubling him, if he ever decided to go for them.
It would be interesting to hear his thoughts on violent new breed (Chilam Balam anti-style) if her ever got round to trying that...
Had to laugh at the gritstone comment. There's always one! lol
tradattack14 Apr 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: might aswell rename the news 'what ondras done this week and a few other bits and bobs'
> (In reply to roddersm)
> does 4 tries mean 4th redpoint attempt? being a bit slow here.
4 tries actually means 4 days, somewhat of an over-exagguration by Bjorn there!
"I can't still believe it honestly. I had tried it for three days, hard to count the attempts, since I tried a couple of times only the upper crux a few time in a row."
> (In reply to ksjs)
> C'mon, you just don't speak the language. When the top boys say 4th attempt about a route like this, they mean 4th redpoint attempt. I don't imagine they even start by trying to onsight the thing; it's too tiring a way to go about it.
An "attempt" usually means leaving the ground, but once you've set off you can hang around on the route and practice any bits as much as you like. An attempt ends on reaching the floor again. But it's a bit of a vague term. I don't think Adam uses it to mean a redpoint after working the route for many sessions as he doesn't seem to do things that way.
> (In reply to Max factor)
> 4 tries actually means 4 days, somewhat of an over-exagguration by Bjorn there!
> Quote Adam:-
> "I can't still believe it honestly. I had tried it for three days, hard to count the attempts, since I tried a couple of times only the upper crux a few time in a row."
It's an 80 odd meter route, so a single go on a rope could take a few hours. He may have only had one attempt per day.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: However many tries, this was an astonishingly quick ascent! I get the impression that even AO himself hasn't yet grasped quite how good he is. My mouth has been open since this morning when I read it! Hope Sharma can make the third ascent soon - he cant be used to getting burned off like this, might want to ease into it slowly : )
Nemo14 Apr 2011
From PlanetMountain, Desnivel and CzechClimbing, it sounds like it took 3 days. Apparently he got there Sunday – sounds like he spent 2 days working it, then maybe a rest day - or maybe he didn't climb Sunday? Then one dog up it on Wednesday morning, and then did it first proper redpoint go. Rumour has it that Bernabé Fernández was there to witness the ascent - along with 30 other people - no controversy this time!!! But also sounds like Sharma couldn’t go in the end. And the final redpoint took about half an hour – 80m is a LONG way…
Amusingly, according to Desnivel, after lunch he then onsighted La Rubia (8c+) and Queimada (8b+) – seems like he’s upped the bar so much that no one else has even bothered to report these.
And Ethan Pringle’s comments on his blog perhaps put some of those onsights the other week into perspective. I think a few people probably thought that because they were in Spain, they were graded a bit soft – and probably a one or two were. But here is what Ethan had to say about Blanquita (the one Ondra thought was the hardest of the bunch):
“Blanquita is a route I tried in Oliana about seven times and fell from this puta slab crux five of those times. It’s rated 8c+ but if it had the 9a grade I wouldn’t argue. There are many involved and difficult sequences and while there is a good rest before the final boulder problem, it’s still damn hard for me even when I just pull on and do it after a rest. Two weeks ago Adam Ondra onsighted this route. ONSIGHTED!!! It’s hard to imagine onsighting a route like this that would be so easy to **** up, let alone climb on your first try without falling… anyway, it’s just mindboggling impressive.“
Anyway, after a long period with not much increase in the top redpoint grade, I think it’s not going to be long before we see the first 9c. And ridiculous as it sounds, I think 10a is possible within the decade if Ondra stays psyched. And the routes really are out there – high quality routes in large numbers all over the place in Spain. The future of sport climbing is very bright. As Ondra says on PlanetMountain:
“The potential here in Andalusia is amazing, it seems like there is even more to do here than in Catalonia! It's incredible, the cliffs are so massive, some haven't even been bolted. I don't think I'll get bored!”
Whereas in bouldering, whilst there are a few uber hard projects dotted around, I think the potential is much more limited. There will undoubtedly be some, but IMO the rock suitable for large numbers of high quality Font 9As just isn’t there…
from the article you link, quoting Nalle Hukkataival:
"Chris's point of view is very understandable and although I am against red-tagging, I respected his wish.My intention is not to wage war with anyone or make anyone feel bad, I just want to climb and have fun.
This was not the end of the world for me and there's so much good climbing in Catalunya, that you're never going to run out of routes to try."
if the person concerned didn't have a problem with Chris Sharma over this, why would you...?
> but talk on here about what he should therefore come and do on grit is absurd.
There was only one suggestion, and I don't think it was particularly serious.
BTW, if this route is 80 mtrs, how do you get down from the top? And secondly - what are the ethics of long routes/big grades? There are alpine routes with multiple very hard pitches, but if you do, say, and 8b pitch and then 8c pitch together with an 80 mtr rope, can you say its an 8c+ or 9a pitch? Or the reverse - why isn't Chilam Balam a two pitch route?
> BTW, if this route is 80 mtrs, how do you get down from the top? And secondly - what are the ethics of long routes/big grades? There are alpine routes with multiple very hard pitches, but if you do, say, and 8b pitch and then 8c pitch together with an 80 mtr rope, can you say its an 8c+ or 9a pitch? Or the reverse - why isn't Chilam Balam a two pitch route?
> but if you do, say, and 8b pitch and then 8c pitch together with an 80 mtr rope, can you say its an 8c+ or 9a pitch?
I don't think you can be that formulaic by simply adding two grades together and always getting the same answer. One variable will be what rests, if any, are like. For instance if there was a hands off at the belay then the linked route would be barely harder than the hardest pitch (just a bit more rope weight) - and that assumes the hardest pitch is the second one.
> Or the reverse - why isn't Chilam Balam a two pitch route?
A good climbing ethic in France and presumably Spain too is to end routes at a natural rest point. Not always a hands off but usually big bucket, sudden drop in steepness/difficulty etc. I presume there's nothing like that on this route.
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