UKC

NEWS: Adam Ondra Flashes The Ace, 8B

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 UKC News 15:29 Tue

Adam Ondra has become the first person to flash Jerry Moffatt's iconic 8B boulder, The Ace, at Stanage Plantation.

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In reply to UKC News:

When 8B isn't that hard anymore and 8A is approaching a rest

 Hardonicus 16:17 Tue
In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog:

Shouldn't he be working Hubble and not pissing about bouldering?

Post edited at 16:18
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In reply to Hardonicus:

he did, it was the first thing he went for on tuesday but it was wet

In reply to Hardonicus:

Isn't hubble a boulder problem with bolts anyway? 🙃

 Shani 18:12 Tue
In reply to UKC News:

That's some effort. His views on the grade of TPS would be interesting.

3
In reply to Shani:

I think the answer would be 'easy' 🤣

In reply to UKC News:

Yeah, but what's he done on.... Oh. 

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 robate 20:40 Tue
In reply to bouldery bits:

It's obvious that AO is going to dispense with modern power technical moves, honestly, not even newsworthy. I propose some routes on Stanege that might give him a problem.

As a start, on a foul February day in the rain and CCF boots:

The Vice, Curving Chimney 

Flashing 9a on Mediterranean Limestone won't help, IMHO...

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 Xavierpercy 21:45 Tue
In reply to robate: I think he would be fine on those routes. It looks like he is pretty good on wet, dank cold rock as well as Mediterranean limestone 😉

youtube.com/watch?v=K8jPTUEHBiI&

In reply to UKC News: Hope he didn't miss out doing left and right unconquerables...

 robate 22:32 Tue
In reply to Xavierpercy:

Yeah, but there isn't a grumpy geography teacher micromanaging the ascent as he struggles with a medieval crystal filled offwidth. I think you'll find that Mr Ondra may not have had the full benefit of a British climbing education.

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In reply to UKC News:

Yeah, but what's he done on...er...Lewisian gneiss?

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 steveriley 23:19 Tue
In reply to UKC News:

I think there’s a sneaky tribute to Big Ron and Careless Torque in this story, pre mats and all that.

 UKB Shark 00:31 Wed
In reply to UKC News:

Is this still reckoned to be 8B with the edges improving? 

5
 wbo2 05:16 Wed
In reply to robate: I suspect a youth schooled in the disparate delights of the Czech republic has had a more than adequate 'education' .

Looking forward to the various YouTube offerings soon to appear.

 robate 07:46 Wed
In reply to wbo2:

Hmmm, epic run outs above knotted rope slings on technical sandstone with a bolt every 10m or so.. yeah ok I stand corrected..

6
In reply to UKC News:

And more amazingly than any of these ascents is that he's managed to get away with wearing a pair of bright yellow trousers 😁

 remus Global Crag Moderator 07:49 Wed
In reply to UKB Shark:

> Is this still reckoned to be 8B with the edges improving? 

People who have logged it (relatively) recently on 8a still seem to think 8B https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-kingdom/stanage/sectors/unknown-sector-5d679/routes/the-ace/

In reply to robate:

Adam Ondra also did the second ascent of some route in Yosemite called The Dawn Wall. Apparently it's known for being very very hard and very very run-out, certainly not "Mediterranean Limestone".

1
 Darkinbad 08:59 Wed
In reply to Michael Hood:

> And more amazingly than any of these ascents is that he's managed to get away with wearing a pair of bright yellow trousers 😁

Surely that is a nod to the glory days of the first ascentionist.

 UKB Shark 09:05 Wed
In reply to remus:

Thanks Remus 

 stani 10:12 Wed
In reply to steveriley:

I'd certainly agree!

How many attempts did it take for the O-dawg to do careless torque??

 Dave Todd 10:25 Wed
In reply to stani:

> I'd certainly agree!

> How many attempts did it take for the O-dawg to do careless torque??

Other channel says 4/5th go...

In reply to robate:

Don't you dare to climb on wet sandstone.

Event that your comment is shit talking it's actually even too shit for that.

6
In reply to stani:

He lost balance a few times while standing up but once he was established he did the top first go. I was talking someone else who was there and they thought more like 6 attempts so I might have miscounted.

 Tom Last 11:47 Wed
In reply to robate:

Having nearly onsighted Salathe Wall, I don't reckon The Vice would give him much trouble tbf! 

 HeMa 12:47 Wed
In reply to Tom Last:

IIRC, it was an Salathe onsight in a day try. And I think the headwall is the crux (Atleast that is where AO fell), which comes After quite a bit of climbing…

In reply to UKC News:

On Instagram, OA also said he did: "some of the most old-school routes ever in Stoney Middleton"

Any idea what he got up to at good old Stoney?

In reply to Tom Last:

> Having nearly onsighted Salathe Wall, I don't reckon The Vice would give him much trouble tbf! 

I initially read this as you having nearly onsighted Salathe.

FWIW, I don't think The Vice would give you too much trouble either

 Hardonicus 16:27 Wed
In reply to ChrisJD:

Little Plum surely?

 PaulJepson 16:39 Wed
In reply to Tom Last:

I can't wait to see him on Rays Roof though, which seems to be what the Wide Boys had him on. 

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In reply to PaulJepson:

> I can't wait to see him on Rays Roof though, which seems to be what the Wide Boys had him on. 

Following on from this, if you could choose one route for him to get on - what would it be?

I know there's been a fair few folk who want to see him back on Hubble, and whilst it would be good to see him get that done, it probably isn't my number one choice. I'd be much more intrigued to see him (or anyone else for that matter) on Total Eclipse (8c+) at Malham, simply because there's an air of mystery around it. 

The other thing I'd love to see (even though it's completely the wrong season for it) is some hard trad onsight/flash ascents, because I've no doubt that if you did line him up underneath something hard in Pembroke - he'd give it a good go!! Something sporty like The Big Issue would surely have his name written all over it.

Alas, we'll have to settle with with what we've got, but here's to hoping he comes back...and reads this thread before he does... 😅

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

As much of a funny rib it was, I wouldn’t have gone for Ray’s Roof in gopping connies, of all the things to point him at.  Smiling Buttress comes to mind. Perhaps a deep history of grit wizardry is required, but maybe not when you’re Adam Ondra. 

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 Brown 17:45 Wed
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Poke him up Choronzon to see if we could have the first genuine E10 onsight.

8b+ onsight whilst fiddling in gear should be ok if you can onsight 9a.

Post edited at 17:48
 robate 17:51 Wed
In reply to Spanish Jack:

I'll have to try harder to flag when I'm talking nonsense ...

2
 snoop6060 18:09 Wed
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I always thought he’d already tried total eclipse. And pretty much did it bar it being wet somewhere. Something like that anyway

In reply to snoop6060:

That was my understanding as well

In reply to steveriley:

When Adam did the Boulder World Cup inSheffield in 2011 (or was it 2010) we got a picture of him in the isolation/warm up area (The Climbing Works) reading Big Ron's book, Adam bought it in our shop.

In reply to snoop6060:

> I always thought he’d already tried total eclipse. And pretty much did it bar it being wet somewhere. Something like that anyway

That was my memory too. Guess I just want to see it actually repeated. Curious as to why it doesn’t see that much attention compared to the various other top end routes. Maybe it’s just not as good, but I’d have thought getting the second ascent would be a big prize for whoever got it.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> The other thing I'd love to see (even though it's completely the wrong season for it) is some hard trad onsight/flash ascents, >

Not got a lot of interest in flash but onsight or ground-up could be interesting...

OK, how's about Longhope Direct (E10 7a) or The Usual Suspects (E9 7a)? Both fairly safe on the hard bits and the latter permadry!

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 snoop6060 09:14 Thu
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Second ascent, onsight, of dangermouse at wimberry? He’s done loads of safe, hard stuff. Time to step his game up
 

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

He could have bought it direct from Ron himself that weekend, and had it signed! I did.

 Mike-W-99 10:47 Thu
In reply to Xavierpercy:

That’s a great film. Thanks

Ondra climbing on gear and wearing a helmet(maybe that bit was for the sponsors)

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In reply to Shani:

> His views on the grade of TPS would be interesting.

I think this is the first comment I've wanted to both Up arrow and Down arrow with equal measure

In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

> I think this is the first comment I've wanted to both Up arrow and Down arrow with equal measure

I'm surprised you haven't developed a line of code to specifically allow this  

In reply to UKC News:

Nice work 💪 I like the way Jerry is there hands in pockets, yeh I'm still the man, not gonna bother spotting the young pretender!

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 Slackboot 10:23 Fri
In reply to UKC News:

Just out of interest. If you spent a bit of time on The Joker (f8A) first and then you went on to do The Ace (f8B). Would it still count as a flash?

 HeMa 10:40 Fri
In reply to Slackboot:

No.

In reply to robate:

Quite some rubbish talk from my side as well, touché.

Climbing on wet sandstone is a sore topic for me though.

 MischaHY 15:18 Fri
In reply to HeMa:

> IIRC, it was an Salathe onsight in a day try. And I think the headwall is the crux (Atleast that is where AO fell), which comes After quite a bit of climbing…

Leading to one of my favourite Ondra moments where he kicks the wall in rage and screams mightily to a pitiless sky: 

"It's f**king hundred million degrees!" 

Iconic. 

In reply to Spanish Jack:

> Quite some rubbish talk from my side as well, touché.

> Climbing on wet sandstone is a sore topic for me though.

You would be sore if you keep falling off.

 Tom Last 00:09 Sun
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> I initially read this as you having nearly onsighted Salathe.

> FWIW, I don't think The Vice would give you too much trouble either

Haha, amazing! Dark horse level cranked up to 11!


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