It's obvious that AO is going to dispense with modern power technical moves, honestly, not even newsworthy. I propose some routes on Stanege that might give him a problem.
As a start, on a foul February day in the rain and CCF boots:
The Vice, Curving Chimney
Flashing 9a on Mediterranean Limestone won't help, IMHO...
Yeah, but there isn't a grumpy geography teacher micromanaging the ascent as he struggles with a medieval crystal filled offwidth. I think you'll find that Mr Ondra may not have had the full benefit of a British climbing education.
Looking forward to the various YouTube offerings soon to appear.
> Is this still reckoned to be 8B with the edges improving?
People who have logged it (relatively) recently on 8a still seem to think 8B https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-kingdom/stanage/sectors/unknown-sector-5d679/routes/the-ace/
Adam Ondra also did the second ascent of some route in Yosemite called The Dawn Wall. Apparently it's known for being very very hard and very very run-out, certainly not "Mediterranean Limestone".
> And more amazingly than any of these ascents is that he's managed to get away with wearing a pair of bright yellow trousers 😁
Surely that is a nod to the glory days of the first ascentionist.
He lost balance a few times while standing up but once he was established he did the top first go. I was talking someone else who was there and they thought more like 6 attempts so I might have miscounted.
> Having nearly onsighted Salathe Wall, I don't reckon The Vice would give him much trouble tbf!
I initially read this as you having nearly onsighted Salathe.
FWIW, I don't think The Vice would give you too much trouble either
> I can't wait to see him on Rays Roof though, which seems to be what the Wide Boys had him on.
Following on from this, if you could choose one route for him to get on - what would it be?
I know there's been a fair few folk who want to see him back on Hubble, and whilst it would be good to see him get that done, it probably isn't my number one choice. I'd be much more intrigued to see him (or anyone else for that matter) on Total Eclipse (8c+) at Malham, simply because there's an air of mystery around it.
The other thing I'd love to see (even though it's completely the wrong season for it) is some hard trad onsight/flash ascents, because I've no doubt that if you did line him up underneath something hard in Pembroke - he'd give it a good go!! Something sporty like The Big Issue would surely have his name written all over it.
Alas, we'll have to settle with with what we've got, but here's to hoping he comes back...and reads this thread before he does... 😅
As much of a funny rib it was, I wouldn’t have gone for Ray’s Roof in gopping connies, of all the things to point him at. Smiling Buttress comes to mind. Perhaps a deep history of grit wizardry is required, but maybe not when you’re Adam Ondra.
Poke him up Choronzon to see if we could have the first genuine E10 onsight.
8b+ onsight whilst fiddling in gear should be ok if you can onsight 9a.
When Adam did the Boulder World Cup inSheffield in 2011 (or was it 2010) we got a picture of him in the isolation/warm up area (The Climbing Works) reading Big Ron's book, Adam bought it in our shop.
> I always thought he’d already tried total eclipse. And pretty much did it bar it being wet somewhere. Something like that anyway
That was my memory too. Guess I just want to see it actually repeated. Curious as to why it doesn’t see that much attention compared to the various other top end routes. Maybe it’s just not as good, but I’d have thought getting the second ascent would be a big prize for whoever got it.
> The other thing I'd love to see (even though it's completely the wrong season for it) is some hard trad onsight/flash ascents, >
Not got a lot of interest in flash but onsight or ground-up could be interesting...
> I think this is the first comment I've wanted to both Up arrow and Down arrow with equal measure
I'm surprised you haven't developed a line of code to specifically allow this
> IIRC, it was an Salathe onsight in a day try. And I think the headwall is the crux (Atleast that is where AO fell), which comes After quite a bit of climbing…
Leading to one of my favourite Ondra moments where he kicks the wall in rage and screams mightily to a pitiless sky:
"It's f**king hundred million degrees!"
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