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NEW ARTICLE: Aonach Eagach by Dan Bailey

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 JoH - Editor 01 Feb 2007
"Aonach Eagach forms the devilishly steep north wall of Glencoe, sweeping to a narrow crest that’s weathered into a formidable array of spines, offering several kilometres of inescapable scrambling above a yawning gulf. Though it’s only a grade 2 summer scramble some sections are quite intimidating, and the overall seriousness belies the grade somewhat. In snowy garb Aonach Eagach looks and feels truly Alpine, and rates as one of the best winter mountaineering expeditions in the UK."

...so writes Dan Bailey author of Scottish Mountain Ridges.

Norrie Muir gives a introduction to this much sought after ridge.

You can read the full article here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=310
In reply to JoH - Editor: I did it in winter last year and thoroughly enjoyed it. The route had scrambling, rock climbing, ice pitches and moving together alpine style in a mountain environment. The views were spectacular. On arrival at the Clachaig a Scotch with ice seemed appropriate, Scotland distilled in a glass.
 long 01 Feb 2007
In reply to JoH - Editor:

Nice article, I love the Aonach Eagach. It was my first winter route, and we did it on a University trip before Christmas. I'd bought my axes months before in anticipation and we heard the weather was good on arrival so did it on the first day we were there. The summit of the Ben was clear, it was a lovely day, great snow, no footprints, finished in the light, grins all the way!

I didn't think it was technically hard though, we didn't get the rope out at all and ended carrying it, along with a rack, all day!
 CJD 01 Feb 2007
In reply to JoH - Editor:

nice article - I'm hoping to do the aonach eagach next month. inspiring stuff.

Slugain Howff 02 Feb 2007
In reply to Dan:

It's a pity the weather hadn't been a bit better when the photos were taken.
OP JoH - Editor 02 Feb 2007
In reply to CJD:

Its great. Thoroughly recommend. Though admittedly we did it in rather lean conditions. Probably doesnt 'count'
In reply to JoH - Editor:

A truly great route. With inexperienced companions we felt it prudent to move roped from the abseil on so it took well over 12 hours, so we only just made the inn (myself still convalescing from climbing fall didnt help probably). My freind refused to leave by the first gully direct to the inn as too many killed or injured on that bit, so descent from next summit along added a bit, perhaps an hour.

In Glencoe next week however, so it might be fun to repeat

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