/ DESTINATION GUIDE: Beyond the South Pembroke Top 50 - E1 to E5

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UKC Articles 27 Jun 2019
Rock Idol So you've ticked your way through a bunch of the Rockfax top 50 classics. You've fondled the relative polish on Army Dreamers, struggled to find early gear on The Arrow and thought, 'blimey that's a big roof for E1' while flaking your ropes under Rock Idol. You've descended into the chasm of Huntsmans Leap and realised that's is weirdly less intimidating from the bottom. But what if you're after something a little less popular, something may be right under your nose or at a different crag entirely.

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Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator27 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Enjoyed that, some great routes (and photos) in there.

Point of interest, Rock Around the Block was put up by me, Graham Parkes and Colin Binks - using rope and runners and approaching across the boulders at low tide. I wrote the route up and it made the guide but there was no entry in the FA list at the back - our only new route in Pembroke

Chris

Wft 27 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Enjoyed this, cheers. 

John2 27 Jun 2019
In reply to Chris Craggs:

You're credited with it in the new guide, Chris.

Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator27 Jun 2019
In reply to John2:

Ah - cheers. I haven’t seen the new series 

Chris

spenser 27 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

It's somewhat disappointing that the author has neglected to leave out the stuff in the North of the county, some of which is utterly excellent!

I climbed Barad (E1) a few weeks ago which was utterly fantastic for its grade (in fact, just utterly fantastic), the approach is a bit of an arse but only really adds to the adventure, the rock is of impeccable quality and the exposure on the crux pitch gets pretty obscene quite quickly.

2
John2 27 Jun 2019
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I don't think The Arrow is really 5c, as the caption suggests.

Graeme Hammond 27 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Few other stuff I thought was really good but not on most peoples Pembroke hit-list from a recent trip:

Startruck (E1) after the 1st pitch you belay looking up at probably the biggest roof you will see at Pembroke at E1. But it all comes together and you swing out on big jugs like a hero. (a grovel is apparently possible) 

Malice Aforethought - climbed after getting to the crag to find the man face had a bird ban. On topping out  we both agreed this was one of the best HVSs we'd climbed in Pembroke. Eat your hear out Army Dreamers! Take plenty of mid range cams/hexes or as I did just enjoy running it out above perfect gear.

Edited to include correct name of route but can't seem to link climbs on editing, would be a useful feature!

Post edited at 13:49
Graeme Hammond 27 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Should have been Malice Aforethought (HVS 5a) but you can't add route links when you edit posts unfortunately.

Ramon Marin 27 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Such a good article. There are a quite a lot of omissions of of course, such is the nature of this articles. But at the upper end, some off-the-beaten-track routes we've done really worth doing are: Manimal, Golden Gun, Loosing Control and Evening Light. Top props for Edmund Morris for keeping unearthing some classics. I' not getting on Gorak anytime soon though...

John2 27 Jun 2019
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Long Distance Trucker on the same crag as Startruck is an even more improbable route at Severe.

In reply to Ramon Marin:

> I'm not getting on Gorak anytime soon though...

I remember looking up at this when I did Hungry Heart and thinking it looked like a different league of difficulty. Thankfully it was wet that day so I had a valid excuse. That said, I am keen to return as/when I'm next in trad mode. Not sure how much help boulder mode would be on it: I'd be terminally pumped by the time I'd hit the 6m mark!!

As for the others you mentioned, and all those included within Stefan's article, it's just great that Pembroke - an area that already has so much to give - has a whole lot more once you scratch beneath the surface (literally, as in the case of your efforts at Raming Hole!!). Truly world class.

Now back to Raven Tor to try the same 13 moves I've been trying for the past month (and will likely be trying for months to come)...

Post edited at 14:58
Ramon Marin 27 Jun 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

or hungry heart for that matter! I heard it's punchy... plus tale of having to swim out and van abseils...

mountain.martin 27 Jun 2019
In reply to spenser:

Seems a slightly strange criticism, the article is about s pembrokeshire, north Pembrokeshire is pretty different in terms or geology,  climbing and is an hours drive away.

Seems similar to criticising an article on gogarth, for not including routes on n Wales limestone or the pass.

spenser 27 Jun 2019
In reply to mountain.martin:

Perhaps, but I usually split a trip to the area between the North and the South, if the article is trying to encourage people to explore a bit further and provide good options away from the ranges Pembroke North would have been perfect to include, particularly given that a fair chunk of it is not all that tidal and there are very few bird bans normally.

Stefan_Morris 27 Jun 2019
In reply to spenser:

I felt it made more sense that a North Pembrokeshire version of this article be left to someone more qualified to write it. Someone like Steve Quinton (who wrote the Pembroke North CC guide) would do a far better job that i ever could! 

steveq100 27 Jun 2019
In reply to Stefan_Morris:

Good suggestion - might have a go but will struggle to match your photos Steffan!

> I felt it made more sense that a North Pembrokeshire version of this article be left to someone more qualified to write it. Someone like Steve Quinton (who wrote the Pembroke North CC guide) would do a far better job that i ever could! 

spenser 27 Jun 2019
In reply to Stefan_Morris:

Fair enough!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Hi

Nice article to some of the more esoteric but superb climbing on this coastline - brings back good memories of the time I lived there and explored some of the "darkest" reaches of this stunning area. 

However a quick comment about the use of the "Talon" on the Castlemartin Ranges - the National Park and MoD have seen the article and have been in touch with the BMC. Knocking anything into the ground on the Castlemartin Ranges is a very big no-no - be that belay stakes or something such as the Talon (in fact it's against their by-laws) due to the very real risk of hitting live unexploded ordnance that may be under the surface.  As unlikely as this may seem - some historical unexploded and live munitions dating back to the second world war was found last winter, less than six inches below the ground,  just a few meters back from the top of St Govans! 

So - please no knocking in of belay stakes or the use of devices such as Talons on the Castelmartin Ranges.  If stakes are required contact the BMC who can arrange for the site to be cleared for unexploded ordnance by the MoD. 

Thanks

Elfyn Jones 

BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)

In reply to Elfyn Jones BMC Cymru/Wales:

Thanks, that's changed. Please can you get in touch with us directly for important stuff like this to ensure it's picked up.


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