UKC

NEWS: Big (wall) news from Norway

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 UKC News 04 Aug 2010
Sindre Sæther, 3 kbSindre Sæther has made the first free ascent of Arch Wall on the Trollveggen wall, Norway, quite possibly the most impressive summer ascent in the Norwegian mountains ever.


Arch Wall takes one of the tallest and least featured parts of the Troll wall and, at the time of the FA...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57150
In reply to UKC News: Quite impressive, especially what with him having a foot instead of a left hand...
In reply to willworkforfoodjnr:

Well spotted!

I had to look twice!

D.
 UKB Shark 04 Aug 2010
In reply to D Douglas: Stockport/Liverpool:

There is an account of Drummond's ascent of Arch Wall in Mirrors in the Cliffs or posssibly Games Climbers Play. I like it that he drops a load of gear and hopes his brother suggests they bail - but he doesn't.
 Henry Iddon 04 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Wow
 Mick Ward 04 Aug 2010
In reply to shark:

Simon, it's Games, the first story in, I seem to remember. Dickie Swinden brought it to Wilson's attention. The rest, as they say, is history.

As far as I know, Hugh Drummond was no relation to the (then) Ed Ward-Drummond.

Mirror Mirror is the best exploration of obsession that I've ever read. Clearly Ed Drummond was prepared to sacrifice well-nigh everything on the altar of his desire.

Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
Clearly Ed Drummond was prepared to sacrifice well-nigh everything on the altar of his desire.

I know how he felt.

 UKB Shark 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Mick Ward:> As far as I know, Hugh Drummond was no relation to the (then) Ed Ward-Drummond.

That's what I thought but the news article said otherwise:

at the time of the FA (Drummond-bothers (Sic) 1972), it was

Jack !!!
 Jack Geldard 04 Aug 2010
In reply to shark: Your wish is my command!

I am here. And I have added a topo courtesy of the Craggs Meister.

Everyone now - have a look at the news again and refresh your browser.

All change - cool huh!

Gotta love the internet.
J
In reply to shark:
> (In reply to Mick Ward)> As far as I know, Hugh Drummond was no relation to the (then) Ed Ward-Drummond.
>
> That's what I thought but the news article said otherwise:
>
> at the time of the FA (Drummond-bothers (Sic) 1972), it was
>
> Jack !!!


But these web sites say categorically that Ed and Hugh Drummond are not related:

http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Troll.html

http://www.mountain.ru/expeditions/expedition_info.php?expedition_id=29

http://www.jefflongbooks.com/articles-transam.html

 d_b 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

My friendly grade comparison chart puts the easiest route (norwegian 6) at around E2 5b, and 7- at around E3 5c.

I hate to think what ? gets in our money.
 UKB Shark 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Nice one

Not in the same league as 'Mirror, Mirror' but if anyone fancies reading an incompetent ascent of the Rimmon Route its on page22 here: http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal8485.pdf


Jack - you'll like the title: 'Friggin' on the Ryggen'

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 04 Aug 2010
In reply to davidbeynon:

I suspect 20+ pitches at 7- will he harder than E3 5c.


Chris

 d_b 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Yeah. I should have said that was for "normal" length routes.
 Scarab9 04 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:

thanks for topo inclusion Jack!
 pneame 04 Aug 2010
In reply to shark:
Hell's teeth; that's quite a story. I've only looked down the Troll wall, but I think the account is somewhat understated!
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing.
 UKB Shark 04 Aug 2010
Ackbar 04 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News: You should mention the second really (unless he soloed it of course)
 kolbu 05 Aug 2010
In reply to Ackbar: The second was his father, Ole Johan Sæther. Sindre also freed the French route on Trollveggen last summer together with his father.
 duncan 05 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC news:

This sounds very impressive.

Mirror, Mirror is one of the great pieces of climbing writing about one of the great epics.


In reply to shark:

I enjoyed your tale Simon. A fine example of how climbing can take you to your utter limits and then back to cakes and coffee in the sun two hours later. I'm still not very tempted by the Trollveggen.
 Reach>Talent 05 Aug 2010
In reply to shark:
Cheers for posting that, the Lob of the Year has to be one of the funniest things I've read in ages!
Ackbar 06 Aug 2010
In reply to shark: What the hell are Naughty Lunches for climbers?

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