UKC

The six ascents nominated for the Piolets d'Or 2011 have been announced.

Several British climbers are amongst the selected few.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60972

In reply to UKC News:
71 hours... thats genuinely ridiculous.
my bets on them or the favresse bros. et al's trip.

In reply to UKC News: I'm still confused as to what the Piolet d'Or actually does. What does "most noteworthy" mean? does it mean hardest achievement full stop? does it mean hardest and most out there according to the team's abilities? or are we talking about what was the most audacious, i.e.nothing to do with difficulty, rather to do with who put their lives on the line the most? i don't get it.

How does a jury, regardless of who and how clued up they are, determine whats harder than another? Colin and Bjorn-Eivind's Foraker ascent, would have taken some people 10 days round trip. But conversely, those guys could have gone and climbed the line on Vasuki Parbat (just an example of course) in a day and a half. If you're going to decide what was the "hardest" alpine style ascent, surely you'd have to analyse all the climbers(teams) abilities, and compare accordingly?

I'm not suggesting in the slightest that this should be done!!!!! but unless it is done, its impossible to remotely claim that what you're doing is identifying the "hardest", "most impressive", "noteworthy" or whatever you want to call it ascent of the year!

I think its good that the big achievements collect aclaim and are celebrated. But any notion of the award actually identifying the best ascent, or ascent's should be smoothed out. As its simply not the case.
Rant over.
Will

In reply to Will Sim:

From The Website: http://www.pioletsdor.org/


The Spirit of Modern Alpinism


More than just the recognition of a performance, the Piolets d'Or celebrates passion, spirit and values.

The spirit of the Piolets d’Or draws its inspiration from the history of alpinism and the authenticity of true team spirit.

The style should take precedence over the conquest of an objective. Success is no longer about getting to the summit at all costs, employing all possible financial and technical means, (oxygen, fixed ropes, doping products, etc) or large-scale human resources (high-altitude porters or sherpas).

The Piolets d’Or event encourages imagination in searching for innovative routes using a maximum of economy of means, making use of experience and respecting man and nature.

The Piolets d’Or is attached to making climbing a shared and valued richness all over the world, capable of attracting the best of human ambitions whilst encompassing moral values and edifying behaviour.

The Piolets d'Or event is therefore a celebration of an ethical alpinism, rich in emotion.


..... The irrational fears have given way to high level preparation, a taste for adventure and complete commitment. The mountaineers take responsibility for the risks taken during these extreme climbs, where the only rescue available will come from their climbing companions or their expedition team.

Mountaineering, an incongruous activity in our societies, is a vehicle for the values of commitment and high performance, achieved with a deep respect for nature in one of its most powerful expressions: the high mountains. The performance is difficult to assess. The summit cannot be the only goal: the manner in which it is achieved is the main objective.

While a major crisis destabilizes our society, a few men and women with no desire for celebrity or without forecasting any return on their investment, perpetuate the ideal of climbing summits by the most beautiful means possible, because the mountains are exists and offer them this challenge “by fair means”.

It was an obvious choice for Courmayeur and Chamonix to give something back to these “Conquerors of futility” in recognition of their undertakings in terms of means and values.

Here, where mountaineering was born 250 years ago, it will be celebrated. The Piolets d'Or awards are a return to the roots and a celebration to understand the essence of this still-growing discipline. ...

In reply to sphagnum: Hi, ye i've read that. I couldn't make head or tail of what its trying to say. I think it basically carries you away in poetry and well meaning words, to a point where you're not actually bothered what it said. And really don't want to go through the ordeal of reading it again to find out.

If its going more on the mentioned values, and difficulty has a small part to play, i think that the winning ascent should by rights go to some unknown person climbing some unknown couloir on peak unknown. Climbed in unknown's three weeks of annual leave.
Come on stop kidding ourselves!! its still an award attempting to find the biggest route of the year!
Will

In reply to Will Sim:

Found the crieria. You would like to think respect for people and the environment would be a no brainer.

Criteria for evaluating performances

The jury judges these ascents irrespective of a climber's nationality and against the following criteria, both on a point-by-point basis and as a whole:

- Style of ascent.
- Spirit of exploration: original (previously unclimbed) route and/or mountain, creative and innovative approach.
- Level of commitment and self-sufficiency.
- High level of technical ability required.
- Suitability of route in light of objective dangers.
- Efficient and sparing use of resources.
- Transparency regarding the use of these resources.
- Respect for people, climbing partners, members of other teams, porters and local agents.
- Respect for the environment.
- Respect for future generations of mountaineers by leaving them the possibility of enjoying the same kind of experiences and adventures.

In reply to sphagnum:
>

There's no such thing as a no brainer. Even what you may think is obvious to others it may not be. Best to state everything.

Anyway the criteria for the Piolets d'Or has changed and evolved to include more than difficulty.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:

Yes, my point was that you would like to think that these values are obvious to all, and should not even have to be stated.


I think the criteria is highly admirable. Congratulations to all nominees, truly inspirational !

In reply to UKC News: Pity about the title of the post, smells nationalistic.

In reply to francoisecall:

What's wrong with a bit of national pride and following the achievements of Brits both at home and abroad?! I love to see our countrymen pitting themselves against the best of the best and being recognised for it? Is it not pleasing to you to see such a great host of Brits nominated for an internationally recognised award?

Nothing wrong with some healthy patriotism!!

In reply to PebblePusher:


Thats not really what they're doing, is it ?

Nothing wrong with patriotism as you say but this does sound more jingoistic - the climbing reporting in the UK is parochial at best.

In reply to PebblePusher Well said, i completely agree. Well done to both Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg.

In reply to francoisecall:

Come on Francoise, of course it does, it's a UK website - and the news will be driven as such (and I want it to be)

" Alpinist newswire = "The Greenland expedition placed one bolt over the course of their nine climbs. The team's written report stated the placement of a bolt, but when asked about it after the ceremony, several jury members said that they were unaware of that fact. -Ed."

More controversy for the piolets or just a bolt?