In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Conditions are reported to be exceptional on the Lyre, but a fatal accident on Saturday has highlighted the very serious objective dangers on this route. From around 1pm, when the sun hits the wall, the middle/lower part of the line is exposed to ice falling from the Lyre Directe (which is not formed) and this continues throughout the afternoon. When the sun leaves the wall the sudden drop in temperarures can also provoke ice collapse for a while afterwards. Anybody that has been inspired by Nick's photos and plans to climb the Lyre should be VERY wary of descending by the line of ascent in the afternoon. Other descent options are much more complicated, so the best strategy might be to take a duvet jacket and sit it out until the hanging ice above is fully stable. An even better strategy might be to find a different objective - there's plenty around at the moment.
At the best of times the Lyre is considered an early season route and the locals generally consider that after mid-January the crux pitch has caught too much sun for the ice to be stable. This year the pitch is very well formed and may in itself stay good for longer. The objective dangers however, are unlikely to go away any time soon.
