NEWS: Chalk on Czech Sandstone? No Sweat

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 UKC News 03 Apr 2009
[Guillotine Towers, Ardspach, Czech Replublic, 3 kb]The Czech Mountaineering Union has passed a bill, still to be accepted by the Ministry of Environment, approving the use of chalk on Czech sandstone.
In a historic ruling the Czech Mountaineering Union recently passed a bill approving the use of chalk on Czech sandstone. Ratified by an ...

 krikoman 03 Apr 2009
In reply to UKC News: Boo! Boo! surely like bolting there has to be some areas where diferent ethics are used. I like the no chalk idea.
 Alex1 03 Apr 2009
In reply to krikoman:

I suspect your views would be different if you had an 8a project on the go there...
In reply to UKC News:

If you check the date on the item on PlanetMountain where this story orginates it is 1 April.....
typo - originates
 Michael Ryan 03 Apr 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:


Czech Mounaineering Union changed the rule of chalk ban on sand
Czech mountaineering union approved today the change in ban of chalk usage on Czech sandstones. According to the new decision chalk is not banned in general climbing rules, but the regulation is in competence of the local mountaineering commissions.

The change was suggested by the representatives of pro chalk progressive mostly sport climbers who would like to climb on Czech rocks in conditions similar like in the majority of foreign states. The change has come after years of large dispute between the pro chalk progressive sport climbers and anti chalk conservative traditionalists.

The ban on Czech sandstones is still valid but the local climbing authorities could find some local exceptions how to solve the local situation.

So that would be necessary to discuss local conditions with local climbers about using chalk in the visited Czech sandstone area.

The new change was approved by 2034 votes of representatives of General assembly meeting today, 586 were against, 169 were neutral.

The Chairman of Czech mountaineering union Zdenek Hruby, who was newly elected two month ago and his the colleagues from the new leadership were for the pro chalk change.
 Alex Thompson 03 Apr 2009
In reply to Eric Herring:
It appears to be a true story, check the story on the CHS website from 24th March 2009:

Google translated:

The rules appear to be a little more nuanced than the new items suggests, but my Czech isn't very good (i.e. non-existent!).
In reply to Alex Thompson:
> It appears to be a true story

Yes, ta, I stand corrected...
 Yanchik 03 Apr 2009
In reply to Eric Herring:

A lot of Central European news tends to look like April Fools.

Try googling "Why come to Slaka ?" or "Absurdistan" for more of the same.

In reply to UKC News: When they making a bill for normal gear?
 v.jester 03 Apr 2009
In reply to UKC News:
HI FOLKS, I have to ensure you, that there is still no chalk rule on the czech sandstone - beside of the right river bank of the elbe valey. It's true, that czech mountaineering club accepted the chalk, but it is still against the ministry of environment policy. Basicly, nothing has changed.

I would't recomend you to use chalk on the czech sandstone beside of the Elbe valey, because most of the climbers could see it like a sppiting on the sandstone tradition and their behaviour could be a bit rude because of that.


In reply to boothy:
When it doesn't trash the local rock - if you don't like it there are plenty of other venues... In any case alot of the Czech crags are quite agreeably bolted compared to their German counterparts, and a good knot runner is as good as a bomber rock 9!
 adrspach 04 Apr 2009
In reply to whispering nic: Are you talking about sandstone towers? If yes you have not been yet in areas such as Adrspach. Have climbed in germany too a nd all areas have their specifics. And I have to top-up announcement from Jester above that If that will be passed by the enviromental law chalk will be allowed to be used from grade IXa and above (about E4).
In reply to adrspach:
I've only climbed on the towers in the Elbe area, either side of the border - there are a couple of crags on the Czech side which are quite friendly (i.e. chalk tolerated and close together bolts). Psyched for Adrspach and Teplice(?) but don't have much info for them and they take a while to get to from Leipzig where I'm based when in Germany...
 v.jester 06 Apr 2009
In reply to adrspach:
Hope it wont be accepted
 Chris Shorter 06 Apr 2009
In reply to whispering nic:

Are you sure it's "Teplice"? I go to the city of Teplice regularly and haven't seen a cliff. It would be useful for me if it did exist.
In reply to Chris Shorter: The Teplice I was referring to is Teplice Nad Metuji, a small village rather than town. Having said that 'your' Teplice is only about 20 miles from the Elbe sandstone climbing areas. There is a Hudy Sport climbing shop in Hrensko north of Decin that should be able to get point you to the crags in the area, or go over the border to Bad Schandau for info on the German side. Hope this is useful.
 Chris Shorter 08 Apr 2009
In reply to whispering nic:

Thanks for your help. I expect I'll be spending several weeks in this corner of the Czech Republic later this year.

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