UKC

NEWS: Chris Sharma returns with new 9b+, Sleeping Lion

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 UKC News 31 Mar 2023

Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of long-term project Sleeping Lion, 9b+, at the age of 41.

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 Harald 31 Mar 2023
In reply to UKC News:

> “The two ascents were the first ever at 9b+“

No they were not. ‘Change’ by Ondra in Flatanger was the first. 
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/adam_ondra_climbs_the_dura_dura-678...

In reply to Harald:

Right you are, have edited that section:

Sharma's repeat of La Dura Dura, and confirmation of the 9b+ grade, made it the first consensus 9b+ route in the world.

 teddy 31 Mar 2023
In reply to Xa White - UKC and UKH:

Incredible achievement from Sharma. Just a small point, consensus seems like a good term to use here. Regarding Mutation from 1998 which Will upgraded to 9a+, seems like it might be a while for a consensus to be reached on that one seeing as repeats are slow in coming! Similarly, Huber's Open Air from 1996 has had only one repeat from Ondra so a consensus is yet to be reached on that one too. Hopefully more repeats of both will confirm but it seems unlikely that either will be downgraded from 9a+, particularly Mutation!

 Darkinbad 01 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

"Sharma was also responsible for climbing the first consensus 9a+ route, Biographie (9a+) at Céüse, France. as well as the first consensus 9b, with Jumbo Love (9b) at Clark Mountain, USA."

And in a sense, also the first consensus 9b+, in that his ascent established the consensus. Not bad.

1
 Suncream 01 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Is that

f7B/+, f8A, f8A, f8A+, and f8A (i.e. boulder grades)

or

F7b/+, F8a, F8a, F8a+, and F8a (i.e. sport grades)?

3
 teddy 01 Apr 2023
In reply to Suncream:

The former

 Spanish Jack 01 Apr 2023
In reply to teddy:

Yeah both Mutation and Open Air are probably solid. But Sharma still broke into 9b with quite a few routes.

In reply to UKC News:

Well done Chris Sharma.


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