UKC

NEWS: Chris Webb Parsons Repeats The Wheel of Life (V16)

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 Michael Ryan 16 Oct 2007
Australian Chris Webb Parsons (22) has repeated The Wheel of Life (V16) in the Grampians (Australia) first established by Japan's Dai Koyamada in May 2004. Parsons spent most of September at the Hollow Mountain Cave (see topo, here) first repeating Koyamada's Sleepy Rave V15 (Font 8c) then returning...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
TimS 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: V16! That's font 8C+! I don't care if it's half a mile long, it's still an awesome achievement. Grampians is pretty high on my list of climbing venues to check out, that bouldering looks amazing!
 nz Cragrat 16 Oct 2007
In reply to TimS:

The climbings better than the bouldering... Taipan wall is just wild
 Morgan Woods 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

been there a few times back in the day and probably walked past the boulders half a dozen times without knowing about 'em....good effort anyhow.
 Morgan Woods 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:

just curious...fo these long probs any idea how hard the hardest moves is ie if it's 8c+ is it a case of "nothing harder" than 8b or two 8b's in a row?
 niggle 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:

> just curious...fo these long probs any idea how hard the hardest moves is ie if it's 8c+ is it a case of "nothing harder" than 8b or two 8b's in a row?

Well, Wheel of Life is a link-up of several other problems. According to climbing.com it's made up of Under Siege (V14), Sleepy Hollow (V12), Cave Girl (V12) and Dead Can’t Dance (V12).
 Morgan Woods 16 Oct 2007
In reply to niggle:

ta....however someone on Chockstone is saying it links "something along the lines of Extreme Col (V9) into Sleepy Hollow (V12) into Cave Man (V9/10) into Dead Cant Dance (V11) and then Rave Heart (V8)"...the topo doesn't seem to show.

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=52753&...
TimS 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods: http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/grampians/hollow_mtn_cave.html

Extreme Cool - Sleepy Hollow - Cave Rave as you can see it takes pretty much a bit straight line out of the cave!
TimS 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Vid of Cave Man which is part of the link up to give an idea of the climbing style - looks amazing! youtube.com/watch?v=yhfRC4nNEA4&
 Morgan Woods 16 Oct 2007
In reply to TimS:

very cool....lots of upside down crimping and gastonning!
Anonymous 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Whats he done in Parasellas?
Carnage 16 Oct 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods: The guy on Chockstone is right.

Supreme effort from Chris and a long time in the making.

Some amazing bouldering in the Gramps now with the existing stuff and new areas being developed.

 nz Cragrat 17 Oct 2007
 Chris F 18 Oct 2007
In reply to nz Cragrat:
> (In reply to TimS)
>
> The climbings better than the bouldering... Taipan wall is just wild.

Bit much for the average punter though. Hopefully be back in October 2008, unlikely to be on Taipan though.

TimS 18 Oct 2007
In reply to Chris F: How did you know I was an average punter What is the grade range on Taipan? Think I'd have more luck on the bouldering after seeing the article in the latest R&I - Taipan looks well burly and I'm not sure about the whole mixed trad sports thing either...
 Morgan Woods 18 Oct 2007
In reply to Chris F:

there's a couple of routes at 18-22 on the left hand side:

http://www.geocities.com/willmonks/taipan_leftside.htm
 Chris F 18 Oct 2007
In reply to TimS:
> (In reply to Chris F) How did you know I was an average punter

Your Profile

"Best Onsights
Trad - E3
Bouldering - font 7a

Worked Grades
Trad - E4
Bouldering - font 7b"

Punter like Me.

Couple of easier routes on it, but the meat is long steep and hard. Amazing piece of rock.

However Navarre on the Grey & Green Walls is one of the best single pitches I have ever done.
 Michael Ryan 18 Oct 2007
In reply to Chris F:
> (In reply to TimS)
> [...]
>
> Your Profile
>
> "Best Onsights
> Trad - E3
> Bouldering - font 7a
>
> Worked Grades
> Trad - E4
> Bouldering - font 7b"
>
> Punter like Me.

Sounds like you are both excellent and competant climbers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punter

 Chris F 18 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Thanks, I was once, now I am a punter. Mick, are a competent and excellent spelller.
Carnage 18 Oct 2007
In reply to TimS: Heres the main Taipan guide:

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=98

Best routes (not that I've done them) are apparently Venom, World Party, The Invisible fist..., Mr Joshua and Serpentine. The grades are super hard by todays standards but you need to be solid at that grade as some of the runnouts can be quite intimidating.

Heres a couple of nice pictures from a friend:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kranked/520794767/in/set-72157600284971943/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kranked/519232730/in/set-72157600284971943/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kranked/109392645/in/set-72157594195239312/
TimS 19 Oct 2007
In reply to Carnage: Nice one Carnage - something to get fit for!
Carnage 22 Oct 2007
In reply to TimS: Sorry that should have said 'the grades aren't super hard by todays standards'

Anyways the vid of Chris' send of the Wheel can be found here for those that haven't seen it yet.

http://www.pitch.com.au/

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