In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
I wonder whether this season will represent a breaking point where the glaciers and snowfields will suffer so much damage that it won’t be ‘repaired’ ever again. I mean things like large new crevasses, impassable schrunds and rubble fields where there used to be snowfields. Cearly glaciers have been shrinking and getting worse but will we now see a drastic deterioration? I get that a snowy winter could sort things out but we don’t get many of those it seems. Then next summer will do more damage, even if it’s not as hot as this one. We need a snowy winter and a poor summer like 2014…
Obviously anything can happen in the short term but the trajectory is clear. I think classic Alpine climbing (winter and summer) and Scottish winter climbing are essentially screwed. Give it another 10 years and we won’t be doing much of either. Rock climbing is all the rage - and in the Alps, that means rock climbing with non-glacial approaches.
In the meantime, climbers have to adapt. Even before this summer, it was clear that August was too late for many Alpine objectives. June is probably the best time to go now. Someone better tell the lift companies and hut wardens…
I haven’t been abroad since March 2020. I don’t see much point in planning an Alps spring trip next year as it would take a very good autumn and winter to build up the mixed. Might go to Spain instead (never been). Thinking about getting the train down and hiring an (electric) car if need be. I’d like to get to the Alps again for some big rock routes - perhaps next June, in the sweet spot between the rock clearing and the glaciers becoming chaotic; or else some non-glacial rock in Switzerland or the Dolomites, which could be later in the season. I’m also not banking on getting much Scottish winter climbing done, partly because I’m no longer prepared to go out in crap weather / conditions, partly because weekend Scottish trips are hard to justify environmentally and partly because there will be fewer climbable days going forward.
I did enjoy t shirt temperature on Scafell during the two ridiculously hot days recently. Could be more of that going forward…