Climber and author Julian Lines describes a sun-kissed solo ascent of Coire an t'Sneachda's Magic Crack...
IN THE DISTANCE, there they lie under the canopy of an oven baked sky; quite content like family pets sleeping in front of an open hearth. How their moods change from day to day, season to season, for these passive summery souls can turn dark and cold, barren and evil.
Does anyone recognise the shoes Scott Muir is wearing in the photos on Magic Crack? I think they look quite practical for long mountain routes but I don't know what they are.
scarpa marathons - discontinued.
What a stunning piece of writing - really captures what it's all about
> What a stunning piece of writing - really captures what it's all about
I couldn't agree more. It made me delve back into his book, Tears of the Dawn, which I also thoroughly enjoyed.
On that note, it'd probably be rude not to give it a plug, as it's available once-again courtesy of Scottish Mountaineering Press: https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/tears-of-the-dawn/
I have a copy right here! I agree, one of my favourites - one of the few climbing biog's I've read more than once.
What a fantastic writer! I thought Tears of the Dawn was one of the best I'd ever read. His ability might be in the stratosphere but his words speak directly to anyone who has ever been climbing on their own.
Thanks for the lovely comments.
This ascent was way back in 2005; a long time before recent developments. It was never my intention to race the route and time it. I was driving back from Inverness in the afternoon and had people coming round for dinner. It was too magical a day to waste. The experience was so strong that I decided to write about it at the time.
Of note, the Magic Crack is in my top two HVS in the Gorms. It's easy accessible and is fantastic to climb when clothed in summer evening light.
Oh... and if I may stick my head above the parapet. Please try and look for an alternative winter option if you are wanting to climb this in winter as it won't last forever with picks and crampons.
Fred Rouhling's visionary route Akira at Les Eaux Claires, France, has finally had a repeat after 25 years and not only one, but two! Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez made the 2nd and 3rd ascents of the route.