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ARTICLE: Crag Notes: Ninety-Five Minutes

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 UKC Articles 19 Nov 2020
Crag Notes: Ninety-Five Minutes

Climber and author Julian Lines describes a sun-kissed solo ascent of Coire an t'Sneachda's Magic Crack...

IN THE DISTANCE, there they lie under the canopy of an oven baked sky; quite content like family pets sleeping in front of an open hearth. How their moods change from day to day, season to season, for these passive summery souls can turn dark and cold, barren and evil.



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 Heggie 19 Nov 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Does anyone recognise the shoes Scott Muir is wearing in the photos on Magic Crack? I think they look quite practical for long mountain routes but I don't know what they are.

In reply to Heggie:

scarpa marathons - discontinued. 

In reply to UKC Articles:

What a stunning piece of writing - really captures what it's all about

In reply to Blake:

> What a stunning piece of writing - really captures what it's all about

I couldn't agree more. It made me delve back into his book, Tears of the Dawn, which I also thoroughly enjoyed. 

On that note, it'd probably be rude not to give it a plug, as it's available once-again courtesy of Scottish Mountaineering Press: https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/tears-of-the-dawn/

Post edited at 13:39
In reply to UKC Articles:

wow!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Enjoyed that.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I have a copy right here! I agree, one of my favourites - one of the few climbing biog's I've read more than once. 

 alan moore 19 Nov 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

What a fantastic writer! I thought Tears of the Dawn was one of the best I'd ever read. His ability might be in the stratosphere but his words speak directly to anyone who has ever been climbing on their own.

 JTL 21 Nov 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Hi.

Thanks for the lovely comments. 

This ascent was way back in 2005; a long time before recent developments. It was never my intention to race the route and time it. I was driving back from Inverness in the afternoon and had people coming round for dinner. It was too magical a  day to waste. The experience was so strong that I decided to write about it at the time. 

Of note, the Magic Crack is in my top two HVS in the Gorms. It's easy accessible and is fantastic to  climb when clothed  in summer evening light.

Enjoy.

Oh... and if I may stick my head above the parapet. Please try and look for an alternative winter option if you are wanting to climb this in winter as it won't last forever with picks and crampons.  

 Mike-W-99 25 Nov 2020
In reply to JTL:

> Of note, the Magic Crack is in my top two HVS in the Gorms. It's easy accessible and is fantastic to  climb when clothed  in summer evening light.

Intrigued, whats the other hvs?? 


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