In reply to John2:
I suspect that he was a massively important, inspirational figure - by example and by character - to those at the time and all who came after.
Have always loved that quote by Pat Littlejohn to Keith Darbyshire, on the FA of Il Duce. "Keith, we have a problem!" (Hope I'm not misquoting, as ever.) They sure had, with the belay coming away and Derbyshire swinging helplessly in space. Prusik (very) swiftly - or both die.
Rightly, we revere boldness. And Keith Darbyshire seemed boldness incarnate. Rest in peace.
Mick