/ FRI NIGHT VID: Dave MacLeod climbing the Indian Face E9 6c
That was brilliant. First film I've seen that really makes it clear how terrifyingly sketchy that thing is.
Indeed, I found Dave's breathing on the sound track during the climb haunting.
Spots of rain on the lens at the top out 🤦♂️🥳
1) What a brilliant piece of filming and more importantly, climbing.
2) Scarpa, FFS keep making brilliant shoes that work amazingly one every situation. Like the Stix. And stop changing them. We like them as they are.
But mostly 1)
Absolutely nothing to add to 1). The way he motors through that top section is breathtakingly incredible. It also increased my amazement at the audacity and capability of Dawes, who, after all, did not have the prior knowledge that the thing was actually humanly possible.
Superb film, and what a great climb. It looks so sustained. And the protection looked (in the film) so sketchy... my heart was in my mouth half the time, sitting here on my sofa. Great filming too - I'm sure it's really hard to film that
>Dawes, who, after all, did not have the prior knowledge that the thing was actually humanly possible.
Well, he did, obviously, having top-roped it first.
Physically yes, but that's not the main point.
Yes, mostly 1, totally agree about the Styx.
3) what a measured, intelligent bloke Dave MAC comes across as.
Scary viewing. Even scarier is thinking back to Johnny doing it, with half that amount of gear and slapping through the final crux moves after the rest.
Well. That was f*cking harrowing.
Very tense indeed. As I was watching I pondered the fact that someone is hanging on a rope nearby. Does that make it less lonely or does it just increase the pressure? I suppose it could conceivably mean a rescue could be realatively quick and safe compared with his belayer having to untie and somehow get to the top to ab. down while the climber sweats and waits? Its not to down play the seriousness of filmed ascents in any way but I am quite curious to know if it changes the nature of the experience. I am guessing JD was up there on his own.
Check out the actual first ascent photos: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6644.msg235988.html#msg235988
Loved that. Not only showed how terrifying the route is, but also how excellent it looks. And Dave came across well again, thoughtful and measured as well as skilled and talented. Two odd things occurred to me, at one point the belayer said something like "That's you back on belay" while Dave was about halfway, why was he off belay and for how long? And when he was talking to camera in the 1st half that wee twig on his shoulder really bugged me! :-D
Wow thanks for posting this - great pictures - looks lonely as hell for the leader.
I should just add, they're not my photos.
Claire just had to use two hands to tie down the skyhook. Planned beforehand. So not off belay in the strict sense, but she just meant she had completed that task and was back to having a hand on the ATC.
Ah OK. Thanks for the reply.
Seb Bouin has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Move (9b/+) at Flatanger, Norway. The route is 55m long and can be divided into three sections: 20m of 8b that leads to a kneebar rest, followed by 20m of 8c+/9a to an uncomfortable knee bar and finally a...