UKC

NEWS: Dave MacLeod Repeats Return of the King E9 6c

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 UKC News 29 Jun 2016
Dave MacLeod making the 3rd ascent of Birkett's Return of the King E9 6c, 3 kbDave MacLeod has made the third ascent of Dave Birkett's Return of the King E9 6c on Scafell in the Lake District. Adam Hocking made the 2nd ascent in July 2011.

After a long season of focussing purely on bouldering, Dave's return to trad has got off to a promising start.



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 Peter Walker 29 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

On the subject of Dave Birkett, was there coverage of his repeat of Dave Mac's Hell's Lum E10 that I didn't notice? I only found out he'd done it today.

(Unless this blog is a brilliantly-done parody)

http://lakelandlegend.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/2014-year-of-squirrel.html
 Scott Quinn 29 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

What about Death Arête, doesn't Birkett say its one of the best?
It's certainly a line....
 djwilse 29 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

If he was suffering from a cold why was he climbing with his top off and not in a wooly jumper with a scarf or cagoule? Just as well he wasn't at a climbing wall...
 Ed Booth 29 Jun 2016
In reply to scott quinn:

gets E8 Death Arete I believe. Not that that should be a reason not to do it, but I imagine when travelling a long way the big unrepeated E9's may hold more appeal to a top climber who enjoys pushing themselves.
 jon 29 Jun 2016
In reply to Peter Walker:

> On the subject of Dave Birkett, was there coverage of his repeat of Dave Mac's Hell's Lum E10 that I didn't notice? I only found out he'd done it today.

> (Unless this blog is a brilliantly-done parody)


I like this bit:

> Now that I'm approaching 47 it's obvious to me that you can't climb all the time or you end up injured. So you have 2 options. 1. You can start doing some charitable work or 2. You can spend over £1000 on a push bike, cover yourself with lycra and turn into a strava-obsessive, road-hogging, self righteous bastard
In reply to UKC News:

Blimey, Dave Mac's a harsh judge if he doesn't think Welcome to the Cruel World is a decent-looking line.

jcm
 Smelly Fox 29 Jun 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Maybe "most appealing line to try" doesn't necessarily mean best line...?
 Peter Walker 30 Jun 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I thought that too. Two star line? If anything I'd have thought ROTK was the 'worst' line of the three
 Jimbo C 30 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

The casual way in which he describes ticking off a pretty serious E9 is amazing.

When I watched Set in Stone many years ago, I thought that WTTCW looked like a quality climb. I also remember that Birkett mentioned unclimbed lines on the East Buttress that would require climbing 9a without gear (to paraphrase). eek!
 Brendan 30 Jun 2016
In reply to Peter Walker:

I read somewhere he repeated another MacLeod E10, Die By The Drop, a while back.
 Peter Walker 30 Jun 2016
In reply to Brendan:
Using side runners apparently, with which he thought it was E8.
 Garron 01 Jul 2016
In reply to Peter Walker:

The thing I find surprising is not that Dave Birkett has done Hell's Lum and nearly one knows about it, the strange thing is that he has a Blog!
 thommi 01 Jul 2016
In reply to Garron:

Which you just cannot stop him posting on! I mean he just wont shut up on the bloody thing.... oh... hang on.
 Franco Cookson 02 Jul 2016
In reply to scott quinn:

There's something fantastically magical about all of these routes. I'm slightly bemused by the 2 star comment - sounds like absolute tosh that.

Does anyone know where any of these east buttress super routes go? Looks like there's a pretty mad line between Borderline and WTTCW...

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