Ever wondered what people mean when they talk about "dynamic belaying"? This article describes how you can use dynamic belaying to belay more safely and to protect your rope. It is taken from the book Sport CLIMBING + published by Rockfax in 2006.
here's one. It's a bad idea to use the dynamic belaying described in this article for trad climbing because it relies on standing away from the base of the cliff. Many gear placements will not hold with the outwards force this would place on them. Dynamic belaying can be useful for trad climbing, as it can reduce the load on poor runners, making them more likely to hold. It is best acheived with a well-timed upward jump as the leader falls (assuming the landing zone is safe for the belayer if the gear rips). If the gear rips the belayer will land on his arse on the ground. Try not to drop the leader in this case, as that rarely helps.
In reply to midgets of the world unite:
Cheers, maybe Mick could add your paragraph to the article? But I'd like to know, can you use a dynamic belay like the one described in the article if you're confident the first piece of gear has been placed so that it won't pull from an outwards force?
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