UKC

NEWS: E8 for Mary Jenner - Bleed in Hell

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 UKC News 06 Apr 2010
[mary, top of rectory, 2 kb]South African Ex-Pat Mary Jenner, now based in Cumbria, has climbed the brutally fingery Bleed in Hell (E8 6c) at the Bowderstone Crag in Borrowdale in the Lake District.

Her repeat of Bleed in Hell is right up at the top of the pile of women's trad ascents in the UK.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52774

 Ian Parnell 06 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News: Brilliant Mary, very impressive
 Jon Read 06 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Brill! Had this been repeated by anyone else?

Article correction: creamer did the definate "slab and crack"

In reply to Jon Read: Hi Jon, I know - it was a little joke!
 hexcentric 06 Apr 2010
In reply to Jon Read: Adam Hocking has done it.
 Jon Read 06 Apr 2010
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Oh. I do have a sense of humour, honest...
 Rob15 06 Apr 2010
In reply to hexcentric: George Ullrich too?
 hexcentric 06 Apr 2010
In reply to Rob15: maybe Caff too though I'm not 100% on that..
 BelleVedere 06 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Mary!


also Well done UKC - i think you do pretty well on reporting inspiring ascents - well, they inspire me.
 ark05 06 Apr 2010
In reply to es: whats the hardest trad accent for a women?
 Chris F 06 Apr 2010
In reply to adamki:
> (In reply to es) whats the hardest trad accent for a women?

I think very few can do a convincing Olde English.

 Chris F 06 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News: Hey Mary, Shot Chick, good climbing.
In reply to adamki:
> (In reply to es) whats the hardest trad accent for a women?

Probably Beth Rodden "Meltdown"...or would that "only" be hardest FFA?
 BelleVedere 06 Apr 2010
In reply to Blue Straggler:

and she has *the cutest* accent too
In reply to es:

If you're into Minnie Mouse on helium, yes
 Michael Ryan 06 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News:

News report updated with photo of Mary on Bleed In Hell courtesy of and used with the permission of Steve Crowe.
 Steve Crowe 06 Apr 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Mary very nearly climbed Bleed in Hell last week in the rain, it was awesome to watch, E8 in the rain! That's when I took the photo. She completely crushed it on Sunday.

 Rob15 06 Apr 2010
In reply to Blue Straggler:or indeed would that be hardest trad route in the world full stop? i remember reading somewhere that the cracks on that route were too small for most male climbers to get finger locks in, thoguh i may be thinking of something different....
In reply to Rob15:
> (In reply to Blue Straggler)or indeed would that be hardest trad route in the world full stop? i remember reading somewhere that the cracks on that route were too small for most male climbers to get finger locks in, thoguh i may be thinking of something different....

It was probably that route, but the reports at the time were almost self-deprecating, and in any case it was admitted that only someone as short as Beth would NEED those finger locks, as yer average man had the reach to get around those moves using different holds.
I don't think Tommy or Beth or any of "their people" have staked any claim on it being the hardest trad route in the world - iirc they gave it a tentative 5.14d pending a suitable number of repeat ascents. I think there are 5.15 routes in existence though.
 chris_j_s 06 Apr 2010
In reply to Blue Straggler:

> I think there are 5.15 routes in existence though.

Really, on trad gear? I didn't think there were any f9a+ trad routes out there...

Anyhoo, back on topic - awesome news, congratulations to Mary.
 The EpiCentre 06 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News: Good effort Mary, on behalf of everyone at the Epicentre.
 Franco Cookson 06 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Must have been your heavily worn ropes I nearly nicked from behind the boulders the other week?

It looks like a great route, as does Hells wall. On the topic of whats the hardest, it doesn't relly matter that much, but i'd say this is one of the hardest Lakes female ascents.


Bon effort.
In reply to UKC News:

Top job.

Looking forward to reading about some even more impressive ascents this summer!

She will be giving Dave a run for his money soon
 Enty 06 Apr 2010
In reply to adamki:
> (In reply to es) whats the hardest trad accent for a women?

Lucy Creamer - Boss Hogg? I know a few lassies have done Lord and Karin Magog has done a stack of E6's.

Any advance on these?

Enty
 omerta 07 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Wow - that's fantabulous! Congratulations!
In reply to chris_j_s:
> (In reply to Blue Straggler)
>
> [...]
>
> Really, on trad gear? I didn't think there were any f9a+ trad routes out there...
>

No idea Chris - I am not really au fait with these things - I had thought 5.14d at the time of Meltdown was the highest proposed, but I have seen the phrase "5.15 routes" in print, but I can't remember the context. It might have been something about "potentially 5.15 if it were ever freed".

Anyway, as you pointed out, a bit OT, sorry everyone, and congratulations Mary.
 Chazz 07 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News:

> Mary Jenner is no stranger to hard Lakeland trad routes...

Can we please have more cliches in these reports? I feel the standard of journalism is too high.
In reply to UKC News:

Repeat from Karin Magog too:
http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/blog.htm
 Enty 22 Apr 2010
In reply to Tom Briggs:

I saw Karin and Steve at Buoux last Sunday. Pottering about - Just done Piller de Formis.
On Karin's blog click on the "about me" link - bloody impressive stuff!!

Enty

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