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/ NEWS: Eagle 4, 9b, first ascent by Adam Ondra

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UKC News - on 13 Feb 2018
Adam Ondra on Eagle 4, 9b, St Leger, France, 4 kbAdam Ondra has made the first ascent of Eagle 4 at St Leger du Ventoux in France. He suggests hard 9b which would make it the 3rd (after Akira and C.R.S.) of that grade in the country and probably the hardest of them all.

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1poundSOCKS - on 13 Feb 2018
In reply to UKC News:

> probably the hardest of them all

Why is that?

stp - on 13 Feb 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

According to Fanatic Climbing:

"The Czech offers a big 9b for this new extreme route which will have asked him about 6 days of work and intense tries. Indeed, the Czech has put a big mental fight in this route, including tries where wet holdes here often took him down. "

I seem to remember CRS didn't take him very long and he's presumably, if anything, a better climber now. As for Akira it's something of an unknown quantity.

Also on this trip he's also done a new 9a there, that's been a project for some years and no one else has been able to do the crux move on, and a new 9a+. So with the 9a+ flash that's 4 grade 9 routes, including what is probably the countries hardest route in just the past couple of weeks. I wonder what will be next.

1poundSOCKS - on 14 Feb 2018
In reply to stp:

Lot of info, thanks. To add, I think it took him so long because the route was wet, he nearly did it very quick. And Akira is unknown. Not important really, I'm not looking for a soft 9b to project, just wondered if it was hyperbole.

stp - on 16 Feb 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> I'm not looking for a soft 9b to project

Yeah it would be disappointing to do it and then get told it's a soft one. I don't think this one will be soft so an ideal project for your next trip ? ;)

Si dH - on 16 Feb 2018
In reply to stp:

Video of the ascent now up on the other channel.

It definitely doesn't look soft!!

Gordon Stainforth - on 16 Feb 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I suspect that Adam Ondra is just about the best qualified person in the entire world to pass judgement on grades, and just about the least likely to succumb to hyperbole.

Post edited at 21:53
1poundSOCKS - on 16 Feb 2018
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> I suspect that Adam Ondra is just about the best qualified person in the entire world to pass judgement on grades, and just about the least likely to succumb to hyperbole.

 

I didn't know he'd been on Akira.


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