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NEWSFLASH: Eder Lomba makes second ascent of Rainman (9b)

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 UKC News 16 May 2022

Eder Lomba has made the second ascent of Steve McClure's Rainman (9b) (9b) at Malham Cove. 

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 JLS 16 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

An 18 minute plus, un-cut video, shouldn't really work but it's rather wonderful.

Seems like Eder has maximised both his effort and the satisfaction from his achievement.

 jon 16 May 2022
In reply to JLS:

It's SO much better than speeding up the rests to shorten it. I always think that's really naff.

1
 Moonbeam 16 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing effort. Such a fun guy; always supporting everyone at the crag and keeping the day interesting. So happy for you mate!

Deleted User 16 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

Jeez he made that look easy - incredible achievement

 Tony & Sarah 16 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

Well done and well deserved.

Tony and Sarah 

 Sean Kelly 16 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

Never seen so many quickdraws in a close up photo!

9
 Gaia 16 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

This is a very impressive repeat, and it’s obvious in video how much it means to Adair as he tries to hold back his emotions. An impressive achievement indeed.
Something that has been bothering me though is seeing lots of house martins flying in and out of shot, mainly around the second “rest”.
I thought there is a bird ban on routes when the nests are being used. Obviously I’m not familiar with the route and situation, could someone please clarify? Are there no nests on or near the route? Happy to be corrected but the footage doesn’t look good from a non-climbing perspective.

13
In reply to jon:

> It's SO much better than speeding up the rests to shorten it. I always think that's really naff.

Yes, I really like the rests in real time too. Builds the tension. Those sped up rests are really irritating.

1
 David Alcock 17 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

Amazed it's only the first repeat. Hats off Steve. 

1
In reply to Gaia:

> I thought there is a bird ban on routes when the nests are being used. Obviously I’m not familiar with the route and situation, could someone please clarify? Are there no nests on or near the route? Happy to be corrected but the footage doesn’t look good from a non-climbing perspective.

I think there's been a major leap forward with regards to this in recent years, with any route that has a house martin nesting - or nest building on it - being given a wide berth.

This has been pretty well enforced amongst the climbing community, with the following thread being a particularly good example: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/crag_access/nesting_birds_on_raindogs_-_stop_climbing_it-721801

I know you've referenced it within your other post, but I thought I'd copy/paste the line from the RAD just as a reminder as to exactly what it says:

"House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests."

In short: if there's a house martin nesting - or nest building - DO NOT climb on the route.

1
 spidermonkey09 17 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

To echo Robs comment, this has been really well self policed by climbers for a number of years now. To clarify, There is no nest on or near this route, with the nearest nesting site about 4m off to the right. Its also worth mentioning that Eder is a massive bird lover and would never climb any route with a nest on it. 

1
 Gaia 17 May 2022
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Thanks for clarifying, I stand corrected. The footage shows activity to the left, so I assume it’s further than the one you mentioned.

Can you please also clarify what the thing taped to the wall on Raindogs is for? Previous response was deleted, so assume was incorrect.

4
 PaulJepson 17 May 2022
In reply to Gaia:

I don't know why you're getting so many downvotes for politely asking a sensible question. UKC is a funny old place, isn't it! 

4
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent climbing, he makes it look easy but of course redpoints at that limit usually have to be smooth or they fail. Interesting to see how at the rest after the crux he's calming himself down to make sure he doesn't blow it on the "easy" finishing section.

I have a (very) slight issue with the filming, that camera angle is great for seeing how he's actually climbing but it just doesn't bring over how damn steep it all is. I think the ideal would be to have a split screen with one camera as is and the other more to the side to show the angle.

8
 greg_may_ 17 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

The first minute of climbing is beautiful. 

In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic achievement. Fascinating to have the full uncut video. 

 DenzelLN 17 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant indeed! Nice guy and funny too, well done Eder!

In reply to UKC News:

Kudos also to Marsha filming, another siege effort!

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 ChrisJD 23 May 2022
In reply to UKC News:

That was pretty amazing to watch.

(did skip a few of the rests ...)


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