/ NEWS: Edu Marin climbs Valhalla 9a+ Multi-Pitch

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UKC News - on 25 Mar 2019
Edu Marin has climbed his long-term project in the cave of Getu, China. His aim was to establish a route from the bottom to the top of the cave, which boasts 304m of roof climbing. The route is 14 pitches long and its hardest pitch is 9a+, making it one of the hardest multi-pitches in the world.

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HakanT on 25 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Doing a multi-pitch in a roof is never going to be on my agenda, but I'm sort of curious about how you manage an outing like that. I know Edu's dad is a strong climber, but I doubt he followed all the pitches, and you can't exactly jug up the lead rope through a roof. Any ideas as to how they managed that?

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cb294 - on 25 Mar 2019
In reply to HakanT:

Same as on any overhanging bigwall route would be my guess: Lower out until you are right under the next belay, then jug up... 

Might be wrong, though, so I stand to be corrected

CB

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Toerag - on 25 Mar 2019
In reply to cb294:

How does the second lower out when the rope runs through all the draws?

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Dan Arkle - on 25 Mar 2019

In reply to:

Awesome looking route. 

Seconding a bolted roof would be an effort, but ultimately not too hard - fall /jump off, jug up to the next bolt, unclip it, repeat. 

Imagine the difficulty of putting the bolts in to start with!

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Michael Hood - on 25 Mar 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

A mere 300 or so

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cb294 - on 25 Mar 2019
In reply to Toerag:

More than one rope.

CB

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Chris Craggs - on 25 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News:

A bit astounding really - wow!

Chris

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HakanT on 26 Mar 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Yes, that’s at least as impressive. 

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Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to cb294:

I was lucky enough to hang out with Edu and his dad and brother while they were working this. He bolted it in March 2018, then spent from end of October 2018 to now working towards a one-day full ascent. Incredible determination and focus, living in a tiny Chinese village for nearly 6 months and hiking up the arch almost every day through some awful weather.

They employed some locals to carry 1500 meters! of static rope up to the Great Arch, which then was placed hanging down at various way stations - some in hanging caves and some on portaledges - from which Edu was belayed. After a pitch, the second would rap off about 150 meters - and then jumar back up to the next station. After his dad hurt his shoulder in a hiking fall they even got an electric rope ascender to get him up to belay.

Edu's Dad (67) they call "Novato" - "the beginner" as he only climbs 8b+ nowadays.

Incidentally Tara Kerchner used Edu's static lines to film Jonathan Siegrist on Lost in Translation, third ascent - the video should be out fairly soon and worth a watch. The Great Arch really is an awe inspiring place.

If anyone fancies a trip to Getu, feel free to contact me for local information. Not the easiest place to get to, but truly world class.

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cb294 - on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Thanks!

CB

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