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NEWS: Emma Twyford climbs Mission Impossible, E9 7a

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 UKC News 04 Jul 2024

Emma Twyford has made the ninth ascent, and second female ascent, of Mission Impossible, at Gallt Yr Ogof, in Gwynedd, Wales. 

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 paulpitcher 06 Jul 2024
In reply to UKC News:

NEWS: Emma Twyford climbs Mission Impossible, E9 7a

Wow. Very inspirational. On first glance the crag looks a lot like Dumbarton Rock.

It was interesting the comment about fear of going above gear being a barrier to the send, and the remedy being controlled falls.

-> Are practice falls something people are doing?

I mean actually taking falls onto the gear on a route during practice to train your brain into knowing it is safe? 

In reply to UKC News:

Amazing watching her cruise up something so steep. She looks like she's finding it about as hard as I find an average HVS.

 Ciro 06 Jul 2024
In reply to paulpitcher:

> -> Are practice falls something people are doing?

> I mean actually taking falls onto the gear on a route during practice to train your brain into knowing it is safe? 

I climb much better if I take three or four practice falls on each of the first two warmup routes of the day. After that, I find I can trust my assessment of placements and relax if I believe a fall would have little chance of consequences; if I don't take the falls, I'll likely be gripped and talking to myself above gear the whole day.

 Michael Gordon 06 Jul 2024
In reply to paulpitcher:

> Are practice falls something people are doing?

> I mean actually taking falls onto the gear on a route during practice to train your brain into knowing it is safe? 

That's actually an interesting question, whether many top climbers find it helps them personally for doing hard moves above gear, or whether they're so used to it they can just switch off and go. 

 emmat 07 Jul 2024
In reply to paulpitcher:

Hey Paul,

Thanks for the comment! I don’t normally get involved with commenting on here but I thought I’d give more insight into practice falls on trad. 
Most of the crux on this route is protected by pegs/pretty good gear. So whilst the climbing is hard it’s relatively safe.

I chose routes that were hard but well protected as my mental capacity was pretty low due to my best friend being in a very serious car accident. Whilst I normally take a fair few falls, particularly on sport it was the first time I’d felt truly uncomfortable so rather than try to push too far into a traumatic experience I assessed when I felt scared and unwilling to commit and would just take a few falls. Whilst that year was incredibly tough it did pay off as I feel I’m back to a good headspace now.

For sure there are routes I wouldn’t want to do this on, but it’s good to get comfortable with the mindset for safe falls and unsafe falls and how to deal with each differently. Hope that helps 👍


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