After what he did last year, half a dozen routes in the 9a region, 15 year old Enzo Oddo is already a highly respected name in the climbing world, but what he did Sunday, 15 August, surely marks the beginning of a new chapter, or the first page in a brand new book... or the new generation...
There's a little more info on the Deadpoint Magazine website - apparently, there used to be a Font 7c boulder problem start to the line, but after a hold broke, it increased to Font 8a. Enzo's made the first ascent since the hold broke, and the thinking is that if it was worth F9a+ with the easier start, it must be pushing close to F9b now.
", cause the re-FA of Biographie, with the new, considerably harder start, ~8A instead of ~7C, is a major deal."
what's different? has a hold broken or something? why would you do an alternative start?
cheers for the what has he ever done at comments. they were tedious years ago, now they just make you sound like a dick
In reply to aphex:
Kairn doesn't speculate any change of grade n and just reports the facts, Deadpoint labours the point that it should be upgraded. To me this just reflects the cultural difference between a French news source and an American one.
There is also debate as to whether the line should be called Biographie or Realization. From my memory banks it was only called Biographie when Arnaud Petit climbed a shorter version at 8c/+. FWIW it was historically thought to be font 7b+ to the first bolt.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Sounds like Adam Ondra may have some future competition
Oh and Steve don't use the grit quote in "Climb mag" for a 3rd time we know there are some shallow people on the web, but to be fair we would like to have people like Ondra and Oddo crush our grade system just for the hell of it.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Awesome, so inspirational. Bjorn, keep up the good work, it's a shame that there's so many tools on UKC who feel the need to post daft comments on every news article that is about bouldering or sport from outside of the UK.
In reply to whispering nic: "FWIW it was historically thought to be font 7b+ to the first bolt."
I remember it being thought of as V10 originally, but I can't remember whos opinion that was.
Having seen the line I was a bit dissapointed by the quality of the start for such a stunning line afterwards. The difficulty is clearly going to be affected by how high you chose to build your pile to start from; or is there an official height for this? Perhaps one day someone might do the route starting at the bottom and finishing at the top?
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