In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Here is a google translate of that link.
Best wishes to you Jon.
Everest Base Camp, Nepal - "You probably have not beaten us, but Westerners. The hotheads are everywhere. I received so much from these people, even with a knife I can hate them and these days here is a continuous procession of those who come to apologize. " These reflections in the cold by Simone Moro, was involved in recent days in an incredible brawl occurred at high fields the normal route to Everest. The mountaineering expedition is closed, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith have already flown away, but the Italian mountaineer remains in Nepal to work as a helicopter rescue pilot with his helicopter that brought specially in Kathmandu to take relief in the Himalayas. Here is why.
Simone what is the situation this morning?
Ueli and Jon have gone away from the base camp of Everest. He came to pick them Folini Maurizio, who has just arrived to replace the other driver and took the first flight. I'll stay here one more day to pack up things and talking to some people.
How was the "armistice"?
In theory we should have done as you would in any other country of the world: denounce the attackers and let them pay the price for what they did. There is no question even of what has happened in the mountains, but according to us it was like the straw that broke the camel's back, because there was no reason to provoke him. Even compared to the estimated block of ice that we would fall and it would hurt a Sherpa: Sherpa yesterday that same declared he injured himself slipping while he was jumarando and beat the nose on the ice. From a verbal altercation, among other things not so switched on, it came out of everything. They understood that the news would have been around the world and it was a very serious thing, because nothing could justify the punitive expedition that have set up in Field 2, telling who knows what other Sherpas, probably triggering a logic of pack. Personally I decided to go in their tents at base camp, to shake hands and tell them that they had made a bullshit. And then I remade it in a public meeting. The problems in relations between Western and Sherpa require a long process to be resolved. I wanted to give a strong example: we were not required to do so, but did not want to add rancor rancor, give rise to new resentment. This for me is an initial gesture, but now that you have to work to change the situation.
So what do you think has caused what has happened?
Probably some Sherpas have realized that this business is great and would like to keep it all to themselves. People like me and Ueli that scale without Sherpas fixed rope and does not make them happy. In addition, when we were at camp 3, we also offered to help them, we have 260 meters of fixed ropes, so when we got down they probably would not have beaten us, but Westerners. Then we were in the wrong place at the wrong time. Because we had permission to climb the west face of Lhotse and permission to put them up again while the fixed ropes.
When was this tension between Western and Sherpa?
This tense situation has always been there. This mountain mountaineering was born 60 years ago, but the relationship between Western and Nepalese today is completely different from what it was then. There are people who invest millions of dollars to come here, I say millions. There are shipments that have established a good relationship with the Sherpas and others who treat them a bit 'as pack animals, or who treat them well, but also that they are not very inclined to thank them properly, to share successes. Then maybe some Sherpas, who earn too much to this work, they began to think it is not fair to them. She's lost a little 'clarity in understanding that Westerners without the Sherpas do not scale this mountain, or at least most of them, while the Sherpas have forgotten that without the Westerners here do not have their job.
How was it to meet those sherpa meeting?
They were different people, they were stupefied, his eyes watery, and no longer had these veins buttons blood. It may sound arrogant, but, believe me, I did not have any problem to shake their hands. We all want peace,'re waving peace flags from the balconies, but then it is another thing.
Were you afraid to camp 2?
Of course, anything more was going to die. They'd also said they would made out, and we had also come down from camp 2 to camp 1 along a new path because we were afraid to meet other Sherpas who could throw ourselves upon the stones. However, I know that here there are lots of good people, the vast majority are 4 Sherpas who stirred up the whole thing, I do not know what could have told the others to aizzarli so. These days here is a continuous procession of people who come to apologize.
Were you ever got in a fight in your life?
Never.
Did you ever think of 6500-7000 meters to finish us off?
Absolutely not. When we saw them coming against us, we immediately started to apologize, then when we saw Ueli who was bleeding from the mouth we tried to calm them down, we never responded. We were kneeling to take punches and kicks.
What you said Denis Urubko?
Denis is not here, because after he made acclimatization to 7000 meters was not well and fell from the Valley of Everest, come back tomorrow. Alexey Bolotov, his companion, but it's here waiting for him. And it was almost better that they were not there, because knowing them, if they were there with us would react in their own way.
Why did you decide to stay in Nepal to do rescue?
I came here to try to lend a hand in this country. The hotheads are everywhere. I have received so much from these people, and even with a knife I can hate them. The last thing you want to do is the figure of the braggart and the intolerant. Just yesterday and today I brought away with my free helicopter and two Sherpas who were not good.
This episode then it made you feel betrayed?
Yes, a little 'yes. But at this time many are telling me "by Simone," which means brother. I apologize, I say they are not all like that, and thank me for what I'm doing for them. I do not spoil the mood of the bad apples. I am able to turn the page, but I fear that Ueli not come back.
In fact, you do not return?
Ueli and I coped very well, like brothers, and even physically in perfect harmony. We are already talking about doing other things together, maybe in Alaska or Patagonia, but I do not believe in Nepal. He and Jon were very upset.