UKC

Stu Bradbury provides some personal recollections and highlights of climbing on the Culm coast.

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Interesting article Stu, hopefully as a primer for the new guide which must be close to launching. All a bit too hard for me as I want a quiet life with little worry. However there is a lot of quality worth seeking out if you just drop a couple of grades. Thanks for posting.

Great article. Harder routes on the coast than I have ever climbed. The coast is a very special place, and if your head is in the right place, the climbing is awesome.  Chapeau!

Steve

Proper stuff.

Great read. Must get down to the coast and get Stu to take me round some of the cliffs again next year. Nothing like the tide coming in to encourage you to crack on!

Great article. 

Can't wait to get back to The Culm, and looking forward to the new guidebook. 

Great article - whets the appetite!

Elisa Johanna worth E5 IMO!

I am so glad that someone else has said this...

Elisa Johanna still ranks as one of the leads of my life. You know when you are convinced you're off, so much so that you know you're off, yet somehow, in spite of everything that's unfolding, you manage to stay on. I topped out in a state of absolute disbelief and must have laughed like a maniac for around an hour - possibly more - repeatedly shaking my head trying to make sense of what just happened, because it shouldn't have happened - I should have fallen.

Lovely article Stu, great to read such passion for the area.

Just one minor correction. It wasn't me M'Lud that went anywhere near Dyer Straits. Several light years beyond my pay grade. I believe Ken Palmer gave it a look, and he certainly had the skills to climb it, but I think he was put off by the rock quality, and so focussed his efforts on Ferocity Wall down south. 

The picture of "Coronary Country" appears to be what the author goes to great pains to explain is the Coronary Country by Fay spike variation (now, apparently, given the name "Coronary Bypass").

Personally, I don't really think going direct adds anything overall, but it is a "better line" with some nice climbing. I thought pretty standard E6 either way - E6 can be hard rather than choss scary!

It is one the Culm's more solid gems and should be on people's onsight list; something the E7 tag doesn't help to encourage.

Page setting is nearly finished...

Hi there, yes you are correct, the shot is of the coronary bypass variation, well spotted...My decision regarding the reinstatement of its E7 grade was based on the amount of personal conversations I have with folk & failures I have witnessed by some good & well known climbers over the past 20 years of spending much time at the crag, it rarely gets on sighted.

Steve Monks original start adds to its sustained nature for sure & the route via the Fay spike is easier & safer...That said neither way makes the crux itself any easier & fairly soon those shagged pegs will be know more & not replaceable although you can fiddle other gear below them & around the area at the expense of more energy...I appreciate your opinion & thank you for your input, I guess grades are always going to be a bone of contention & all we can do is use them as a guide & go with a general consensus of opinion I hope you found some inspiration in the article. Thanks, Stu.

Haha! Thank Ian   Just goes to show you can't trust rumor!

Haha! Glad you enjoyed it! its a great route & rarely get climbed.

Amazing article, Stu. Beautifully written. Totally engaging. Mike and I are sitting here reminiscing, and dreaming up new adventures to be had 

I certainly watched Ken working the wall on a top rope many years ago while  I was doing Earth Rim Roamer.

Really inspiring article though I don't think I've got the balls for many of the routes you describe these days. Think my last Culm climb was being led up Breakaway on Henna Cliff by a young Ben Bransby and that was memorable enough for a lifetime!

I've always been curious about Breakaway, but one question - just how bad is it?!

Depending on your answer I may or may not need to persuade a slightly older Ben Bransby to lead me up it...

Thanks John...Breakaway! hmmmm, brave! it certainly has a reputation, its one I have not done, I'm not sure why as I have done my share of the loose... that said I'm not sure its even on my to do list as have had a few close shaves & near misses on some of the XS stuff & would like to see a few more years yet.

It has been debated for the new guide whether to give it 3 stars for its journey/experience & history as Mr Fowler did not give it stars but it seems to have gained a following...I'm not sure anyone who climbs it these days is pulling on the same holds that Fowler & Morrison used on the 1st ascent

Fight or flight still has you name on it Rob

Thanks Juliette I'm glad you enjoyed it, hope you are both well.

You seem to have struck a chord their Mr Holmes & I'm sure you are right, its been close to 20 years since I first climbed it & I remember I found the upper section tough but at that time I was just starting my Culm journey & had not climbed enough routes of the grade in the area to make a solid judgement but it certainly left an impression!

We've decided on 3 stars (I checked with Mick and he's happy with that).

In my view Breakaway is 3 star for the brilliant, intense climbing experience and 3 skulls for the death potential. Andy Long was also on the team, so as I was with much better climbers I immediately grabbed the middle of the ropes. After seconding the first pitch, Andy gave up any idea of leading through and we pushed the young Bransby to the front throughout. At the top of the second pitch Ben made a belay out of 7 pieces of crap gear, including a snow stake in loose turf, crap cams, nuts and pegs. They were so rubbish that we agreed that if we had to abseil, we were going to equalise all the pieces and leave them all behind. Beneath the top pitch, Andy and I took a hanging belay off 2 warthogs. The rock above looked sharp and horrifically loose, so we made Ben hammer in another warthog 10 feet up as a stopper runner, though I was fairly confident Andy and I would be saved by the ropes cutting through if Ben fell. Ben got 1 more runner low down in around 120 feet of horrifically loose climbing. When Andy finally staggered over the top to safety, he fell into Bens arms exclaiming "You're f'ing mad  but I love you." The climbing is an amazing exercise in controlled static movement. On the first pitch you pull down carefully on stacked card-like holds while on the 2nd pitch you chimney using pressure from every limb to hold the caked mud in place. On the top pitch I kept sinking my chacal ice hammer in loose turf and mantelling on it. It's so intense I totally understand why Dave Thomas got a savage migraine on it. The route clearly changes regularly, as it bore little relation to Fowler's original description. Arguably there is no move harder than English 5c on it (I thought one bridge was worth 6a). An incredibly bold, steady E3/4 leader could possibly get up it, while a 9a sport wad might fall off lots of moves. It's a stunning line and one of the most historic and memorable challenges around.

Amazing description, thanks John. Does that answer your question Rob G? 😂

Wow, what a description!

I may have to sleep on that one, as I'm not sure whether or not I'm entirely convinced. If I wake up having had a nightmare I think I'll know the answer (and dare I say it, I think I know what that might be)...

F*ckin ace!!! Thanks for your input...I'm sure after that description the next time I am out walking the dog I will spot the ques from the coast path

We were drawn to it by Iain Peters’ old guidebook description “conveniently situated near the graveyard at Morwenstow”.  Who could resist? I have a set of slides of our ascent in the loft somewhere. I must look for them one day.

Great description of Breakaway. Draws me to and repulses me from it in equal measure. Let me know if you’re interested in swinging leads Rob G - the perfect route to climb with someone on for the first time no?

Rob and Luke if you fancy making it a three, I'm up for it!

I always liked the bit "..and a strong belief in one's immortality are the main requirements for an ascent."

And "After pitch 2 retreat would be at best extremely difficult or at worst terminally easy".

We're keeping Iain's description for the new guide, together with the note "Given the nature of the rock, the following description and photo diagram is included more for historical interest than accuracy."

Obviously there's something about this coast that brings out the best in climbers' writing. Iain's guidebook was always my favourite with little gems scattered throughout ('holds can be found....on the beach') and the mantle has well and truly been picked up by Stu in his excellent articles and John's riveting description of Breakaway, which gave me sweaty palms just reading it. Luke, Rob and Ian...I'll pass on making up a foursome!

My favourite Breakaway moment though has to be Martin Pezzer's youthful yet bemused and regretful face throughout this wonderful little film:

youtube.com/watch?v=sCbw0lsMxKE&

I am really glad you’re keeping Iain’s description. It’s part of what gives the climb it’s character and means the build-up before the attempt is almost as mentally engrossing as the climb itself. Three is a good number for the climb- the pair on the belay can enjoy considerable black humour at the leader’s expense. 

Ha - I wouldn’t rule it out!

I don’t own a winter rack (other than a few pegs & one warthog), so if you could supply that it might tempt me in?!?

Other than the aforementioned belief in one’s immortality, does anyone else on this thread with first hand experience want to comment on the necessary kit?

Great article Stu and clearly written with a real passion for the area... sadly all too hard for me these days..... I'll stick to the granite across the water!

Can't wait for the new guide.

You need a decent number of warthogs, a lump hammer for placing them and a peg/ice hammer with a long pick for extracting them. Warthogs in shale, when available, form the best gear on the route and we were pretty confident they would hold a fall. They are pretty knackering to place (Ben kept moaning).

We took a metal stake which we used as part of the equalised belay at the top pitch one, but it's not essential.

We took a mixed trad rack including pegs. We didn't own big cams at the time. I can't remember if they'd be useful.

It might be worth using fairly thick ropes to reduce the risk of them getting cut through in a fall.

Yeah! Bicycle clips to stop the shit running down your trouser legs & reducing the frictional properties of your rock shoes

Ta - that’s useful to know. Shame warthogs seem to be so tricky to get hold of.

I know where there’s one buried to the hilt - but don’t know if I want to go back up there to get it ..

Mr Bartrop has a stash

... although one less than he used to - see my post above!  

So that's where my warthogs are...

yeah I know where that is

Don't worry I'll dust off the chalk climbing rack - at one point I had about a dozen warthogs - so they should be around, I'll have to see if that's where I left my extra cajones too!

I'd lend you mine, but I can't seem to find them these days! Have fun, I look forward to hearing how it went.

Awesome!   I lived in Bude for  while in the mid '80's and have always had a thing about the Culm.   Loved it, but E2 was my limit for on sight.  ( the only way to climb)

Did a couple of first ascents but left them for others to claim years later.  One was a stack which we kayaked in for, though this was unnecessary.

Happy days: good weather, good climbing, good women.  I'm so old and knackered now that I can only take one of those three !!!!

Haha! Love it as long as your still smiling that's all that counts...when we are old & it all comes down to it money means nothing, its memories that make us who we are, thanks for reading & I hope it sparked a few fond memories.

Stu.

Chapman Rock? 

Brilliantly horrific (Breakaway film)

A very comprehensive article Stu. way beyond anything I'll ever do, but interesting nonetheless.

Great article Stu! For anyone (like me) with no friends in Cornwall, I was climbing Lower Sharpnose and Bosi with Stu last week. He he an excellent and knowledgeable guide (as this article shows), I couldn't recommend him enough. If you're lucky his four legged friend Jack will be along for the ride and barking at anyone trying to steal your line

I've always fancied Oceans nice to see it's still climbable although I might not be up to it now

It is brilliant if your into 3D gymnastic style climbing