UKC

In this UKC Exclusive, legendary climber Johnny Dawes gives us his unique take on Indian Face, how he did it, how it fits with modern climbs, and loads of other stuff we didn't fully understand. But it sounds pretty cool.

"The type of climb Indian Face is, gaining in familiarity, making progress in increments would have been possible. It would have been bloody fantastic. I maintain I could have done it that way. What a shame I didn't get to, maybe I would have died..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5754

In reply to UKC Articles: Is it the case that Nick Dixon has climbed E9 every year since his ascent of IF as Johnny Dawes states ? If so, feck me...

In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyed reading that Johnny, Cheers.

In reply to UKC Articles:

A great read with some thoughtful nods to JR, ND and PW, very nice.

In reply to UKC Articles: Nice article, i can remember being outside the Padarn in the 80s and witnessing Gabwt trying to sell dope to a pensioner woman, made me smile.

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The Dawes is God.

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Great article

In reply to UKC Articles: Nice article Johnny.

I interviewed Pete Whillance for one of the first films I ever made. He told me at the end that he had sat beneath Indian Face 6 times wondering whether to go for it.

"I could have climbed it, I could have died" I think were his words.

Dom

In reply to UKC Articles: Poetry.

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Very cool.

Love it,

In reply to UKC Articles:

An empty fridge.

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" I recall I drank water out of the stream that year Chernobyl had a meltdown, perhaps that is what did for my thyroid."

Well, no-one could sell any Welsh lamb, so maybe...

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Great article. Superb photo of Cloggy. You just want it so much.

And prophetic words:

'I like Dixon's observation: "people don't seem to be into death as much as they used to be".'

My God, that's true. I'm sure it's a good thing and yet:

'She can't be chained
to a life where nothing's gained
and nothing's lost
at such a cost.'

Sometimes you have to put your life on the line to break through. A fool's gamble? Quite probably. But if you do it and win, the rush will be with you until your dying day.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:


I think that's true if you lose too!

In reply to JamieAyres: I'd look closer to home.. Traws.. (now shut.. didgy footings).. nice article..

Worth reading his chapter on this after the recent ascents.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Class.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Magnificent article.

In reply to UKC Articles:
Crazily disjointed but I guess that's the point.

In reply to UKC Articles:
Loved this article! Thanks JD and UKC for this...

In reply to CragRat11:

He said some incredible things. We should dig out that interview, even if we had no idea how to shoot back then!

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"The void we'll all join later softly blowing the hairs on your neck"

Man what a brilliant line. So few words conjures so much...going to have to give his book a read. I had no idea he was such a writer

In reply to Kemics:

You have to stick with it.. its a tad strange.. but he also has good moments and bad... at times I felt like he was forcing it.. then at times flows naturally.. it took me a while to get into but then loved it.

In reply to The Pylon King:

Clapton is God.

In reply to Dave Foster:
I thought he was Spartacus

In reply to 999thAndy:

No, I'm Spartacus...

In reply to UKC Articles:
Three great essays. A great basis for discussing climbing psychology, history and ethics. I can only admire, and remain thankful I have avoided purposefully putting myself into such horrors. Though unintentionally I suppose most climbers do, usually proportionally less often as we gain experience, despite improving our standard. But then a goal, an adventure lures us on. Not too often.

In reply to Oliver Hill:

Thanks to all these climbers for their great articles and video interviews on Indian Face. Almost sounds as though this route's E grade is not high enough!

In reply to UKC Articles:
Very cool article.

In reply to UKC Articles: A great read. cheers Johnny. I have seen the Indian on many occasions. Nice to see JR, Nick and Pete Whillance get a mention, and deservedly so.

In reply to UKC Articles: 10/10, sounds like you've got another book in you Johnny.

In reply to UKC Articles: Poetics + a hint of bullshit = great writing.

Just because I don't understand it, doesn't mean I couldn't read it all day.