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PODCAST: Factor Two - S2 Ep.1: More Than a Dream

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 UKC Articles 06 Nov 2018
Factor two Episode 1In this second Factor Two podcast series, Wil Treasure shares stories from the climbing world through interviews with both well-known and lesser-known characters. In-depth, personal accounts that aren't read from a page on a variety of themes. Settle down with a cuppa and have a listen...

The young Dave Thomas was motivated by one thing above all others – soloing. In his own words he's "Never climbed a hard route", but anyone looking at his climbing C.V. would beg to differ. I wanted to know if Dave experienced Authentic Desire for his ascents. The answer was a lot more complicated that I thought.



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 dr evil 06 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Gripping and absolutely superb. Cheers!

 

 Michael Gordon 07 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great stuff. I think Dave's relationship with soloing is probably so personal that it may be difficult to learn from, though I found it interesting when he was talking about 'climbing without thinking'. Usually this is the best way for worked solos (headpoints), though I would say it's generally regarded that when onsight soloing you still want your mind to be working overtime to deal with the situation, but at the same time control the fear. It would take a special talent to climb difficult routes as though on a top rope when onsight soloing, but it sounds as though that's sometimes what he did!  

 AP Melbourne 07 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Ace that and very insightful, more please,,,,

Cheers,

AP.

 Taba 07 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Fantastic. There is a lot of irreverent, funny stuff about climbing around, and as much as I enjoy all that, this is a stunning contrast. 

 Shani 07 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyable. One of the best podcasts I've heard in some time. 

Great to hear how a mind ticks when embracing that level of commitment. 

 galpinos 07 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

This is great Will, well done.

 Will_he_fall 08 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

This doesn't seem to be able to download on the podcast app on my iphone, where the previous season is- has it been published for download yet?

Cheers

 simes303 08 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

I can't access the podcast. The page says I have to click to change consent but nothing happens when I click it. This happens on both my work and home laptops. What's going on?

 C Witter 08 Nov 2018
In reply to simes303:

You have to check the box about videos, as well as clicking consent. It's quite a small box, so you have to look carefully.


C

 C Witter 08 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Fascinating stuff - thanks. I agree with others. It's a kind of new and developing taboo to talk about how climbing is anything other than fun, inclusive, sociable and (usually) safe, with every aspect somehow knowable and risks managed in a 'rational' way. However, this really brings out the ways in which climbing is sometimes an exploratory journey into danger, fear, the unconscious, the traumatic, the ludic and the surreal. The image of DT leaning out on a leg jam, laughing to himself, whilst his horrified mate looked on, really stood out; along with him treating a hold like a pack of cards to shuffle, whilst he tried to calm his nerves before the next pitch...

Nice editing, too! Will be listening to others.

 galpinos 08 Nov 2018
In reply to Will_he_fall:

Works fine for me in the Apple podcast app on my iPhone?

In reply to UKC Articles:

Clearly I'm biased, but I thought this was a truly exceptional episode.

Obviously a huge amount of credit to Dave for opening up on what were clearly very emotive topics for him to explore, but also to Wil for capturing these moments and putting it all together, which can't have been easy. 

Looking forward to the rest of the series!

 

 simes303 08 Nov 2018
In reply to C Witter:

There is no box. I click change consent and absolutely nothing happens. I'm also getting "Forums: 4 replies" when there are a lot more than that.

Post edited at 18:06
 Wil Treasure 09 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks for the comments on this (and a massive thanks to Dave for taking the time to share the story).

This was probably the most difficult episode to put together for a number of reasons, the main one was a sense of responsibility to Dave to make sure that it was saying what he meant. There's also a lot of material which doesn't get included, or details which get left out to try to keep a clean thread and keep the pace of the story.

Dave is slightly mortified by my hyperbole in the description, and he might be right. To me it is completely astonishing that someone would venture onto this first ascent with so little preparation. Anyone who has done Moonraker or Dreadnought and glanced across would surely feel the same. Dave points the respect at Mick Fowler and Andy Meyers for the first ascent of Caveman - he made the second ascent before doing Terra Cotta. In Dave's eyes Terra Cotta is just a minor variation, which I suppose it is, but when I was looking through similarly hard ascents made during the 1980s I felt that Dave's really held its own against them. We saw Jerry in the first episode taking on a similar minimal-inspection-balls-out ascent. We were starting to get into the realms of lots of practice and sport standards shooting up by the time of Dave's ascent, but it still ranked up there in my mind.

 Wil Treasure 09 Nov 2018
In reply to Will_he_fall:

> This doesn't seem to be able to download on the podcast app on my iphone

Have you had any luck yet? It should appear in all of the same places as before.

 robertmichaellovell Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 10 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great episode, very thought provoking. Thanks.

 EllieWoods 11 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks Wil - another great podcast. Look forward to the others  

 Nick Nitro 17 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Absolutely brilliant, cheers.

Now, if only we could get another series of 'Mountain'....

 David Alcock 18 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

This needs a bump. Great stuff.

 Paul Figg 19 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Wil, thanks for another really great podcast, really nice in depth insight into hard soloing. Such a good listen.


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