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NEWSFLASH: First Ascent of Brandenburg Gate Project by Will Bosi, Proposes 9a+

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 UKC News 08 Nov 2021

22-year-old Will Bosi has made the historic first ascent of the last outstanding open project at Raven Tor, the Brandenburg Gate project. Will's ascent comes just one week after he made the long-awaited first repeat of Mutation 9a+.

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1
In reply to UKC News:

Wowsers!

Another legendary Raven Tor route crushed by Will Bosi! 

Congratulations and well done!

I've seen the video and the route looks very technical - I saw drop knees and heel hooks.

MS

2
 Pedro50 08 Nov 2021
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Good Gaston too.

 Lankyman 08 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

If it's 'only' 9a+ why has it held out for so long?

3
In reply to Lankyman:

> If it's 'only' 9a+ why has it held out for so long?

Remus might be best placed to answer this but isn't it quite a select list of UK climbers who have climbed 9a+ or harder? (four or five if that) so the pool of talent is small. 

Suspect the Tor isn't on the top of many international wads' radars so it's no surprise that it's held out so long from that perspective. 

A bit like Mutation, I was hoping it was going to weigh in at a grade worthy of the myth.

Brilliant effort Will. 

Post edited at 19:18
 GDes 08 Nov 2021
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

Without wishing to annoy those who enjoy a bit of scrappy limestone, could it also be that it's not very good?! 

1
In reply to GDes:

> Without wishing to annoy those who enjoy a bit of scrappy limestone, could it also be that it's not very good?! 

The Tor? Think you're probably correct in terms of what it is as a lump of rock. As a piece of (really important) history it's definitely got a value and a place. Guess it's pretty cool that the book is closed on its last great problem (because there really can't be anything left to squeeze out can there?). 

 Misha 08 Nov 2021
In reply to Lankyman:

Of course it could be harder than 9a+…

1
 GDes 08 Nov 2021
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

I don't doubt its place in the history of Peak climbing, but as hard unclimbed lines go on a global scale, it's hardly like gazing up at the endless pristine rock of Hanshalleren. I'm just suggesting that may be a reason it's not had more attention by the worlds very best... 

In reply to GDes:

> I don't doubt its place in the history of Peak climbing, but as hard unclimbed lines go on a global scale, it's hardly like gazing up at the endless pristine rock of Hanshalleren. I'm just suggesting that may be a reason it's not had more attention by the worlds very best... 

👍 

In reply to Shani:

One of the reasons (obviously) for the highly developed state of the routes there (i.e. eliminates, variations) is because of the impressive length of the walk-in to the crag.

Suits those with strong upper bodies and weedy legs 😁

If there was a 50m slope of scree below it then there'd only be half the number of routes.

In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

> Remus might be best placed to answer this but isn't it quite a select list of UK climbers who have climbed 9a+ or harder? (four or five if that) so the pool of talent is small. 

It's basically a short boulder on a rope. A direct start to Make It Funky (8c). Bumping 8c to 9a+ with a boulder start suggests the boulder is pretty hard (I'd heard V15). Combine that with it not being particularly inspiring and being hugely overshadowed by the (until recently) unrepeated Mutation... which is the obvious goal post Hubble....

Over the last few years I've always heard it said that there are plenty who could. But few who are willing to put in the time. Whether that's true or not...

Post edited at 08:29
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

> It's basically a short boulder on a rope. A direct start to Make It Funky (8c). Bumping 8c to 9a+ with a boulder start suggests the boulder is pretty hard (I'd heard V15). Combine that with it not being particularly inspiring and being hugely overshadowed by the (until recently) unrepeated Mutation... which is the obvious goal post Hubble....

> Over the last few years I've always heard it said that there are plenty who could. But few who are willing to put in the time. Whether that's true or not...

That sounds like a fair analysis. I guess that's the thing about myth (or at least for those of us with mortal talents), of those capable it was perhaps a bit meh?

Post edited at 09:01
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

It's undeniably hard. But yeah, as with most things with a Gaskins link... I think the myth was simply that. A myth.

8
 Fellover 09 Nov 2021
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

> It's undeniably hard. But yeah, as with most things with a Gaskins link... I think the myth was simply that. A myth.

That's not entirely fair in this case is it? It's come out as 9a+ which at the time Gaskins was trying it was very hard. Unlike other Gaskins routes/boulders there are actually reliable eyewitnesses who saw him get pretty high on Brandenburg Gate. Apparently he was also using a different sequence to Will, which (assuming his sequence looked really hard) may be a contributing factor towards the reputation.

In reply to UKC News:

Has Steve been on it? Surely he'd have had it in his sights due to being the nation's top limestone climber for many years?

In reply to Shani:

Alan Watts I believe.

In reply to Fellover:

> That's not entirely fair in this case is it? It's come out as 9a+ which at the time Gaskins was trying it was very hard. Unlike other Gaskins routes/boulders there are actually reliable eyewitnesses who saw him get pretty high on Brandenburg Gate. 

I have heard the same over the years but I've never been able to ascertain who these eye witnesses were. Any ideas?

The thing is. Gaskins was clearly a good climber. But was he Shadowplay/Violent New Breed/Brandenburg good? Over the years I've wanted so much to believe it's all true. But following 'the' interview and then Dan Varian's in depth and reasoned thoughts on UKB... I have to say I don't believe it.

The only thing I can add is Pete Oxley telling me he watched Gaskins make 'good progress' on the project that became Alcatraz (at Coastguard) 'in the rain'. Definitely worth noting. But given that's 8b and miles off Brandenburg et al despite the rain ... it's not particularly useful beyond a note.

Anyway, end Gaskins hijack!

EDIT: I personally can't fault his naming though. Every problem/route of his has an awesome name!

Post edited at 12:16
2
 Fellover 09 Nov 2021
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

> I have heard the same over the years but I've never been able to ascertain who these eye witnesses were. Any ideas?

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg647558.html#msg647558 some other people in that or other threads mentioning they saw him doing sections.

> The thing is. Gaskins was clearly a good climber. But was he Shadowplay/Violent New Breed/Brandenburg good? Over the years I've wanted so much to believe it's all true. But following 'the' interview and then Dan Varian's in depth and reasoned thoughts on UKB... I have to say I don't believe it.

Yeah, I struggle to believe as well - as much as I want to! In this case though, there seems to be some decent evidence he was quite close. There's evidence from people seeing him early in the morning that he was trying it lots, so it seems like something he could have simply claimed he did it, but he didn't for whatever reason.

> EDIT: I personally can't fault his naming though. Every problem/route of his has an awesome name!

True, fantastic at that bit of climbing without a doubt.

> Anyway, end Gaskins hijack!

Sorry all...

1
 Ian Parsons 09 Nov 2021
In reply to neilh:

> Alan Watts I believe.

Probably not late 1980s, then; Watts and Chris Grover climbed there in 1985/6.

 Boy Global Crag Moderator 09 Nov 2021
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

> Anyway, end Gaskins hijack!

> EDIT: I personally can't fault his naming though. Every problem/route of his has an awesome name!

I thought the name was given to the original aid route, i.e. pre-dates Gaskins.

In reply to Boy:

Sorry yes. I was referring more to Shadowplay, Violent New Breed, At the Heart of it All etc. Not Bburg

Post edited at 16:02
 stp 10 Nov 2021
In reply to Toerag:

I seem to recall he's tried but couldn't do one of the moves, getting into Make it Funky IIRC. Probably less his kind of thing too. He found Hubble tough and this is a grade harder in the same style. He's also got less reach which may be a factor too.


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