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NEWSFLASH: First Repeat of Mutation 9a by Will Bosi, Proposes 9a+

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 UKC News 02 Nov 2021

Will Bosi has made the long-awaited first repeat of Steve McClure's 1998 route Mutation 9a at Raven Tor. The line has been a long-term project for Will and since he first started working the route four years and 40 sessions ago, he has gone on to redpoint his first 9b and 9b+.

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 Dominic Green 02 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Wow, Brandeburg Gate project next?

 Moonbeam 02 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

venga

2
In reply to UKC News:

my god... what legends, both of them

1
In reply to UKC News:

Outstanding effort.

Who are the biggest names it's shut down? Was Megos trying it (probably briefly)? 

What's the chronology now with it being 9a+ in terms of what else was out there? If he'd gone full 9b that would have been the first by quite some years, yes? 

 remus Global Crag Moderator 02 Nov 2021
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

Alex Hubers Open Air was climbed in 1996 and initially given 9a but was later upgraded by Ondra (who made the second ascent), so if Mutation is 9a+ it'd be the second after Open Air. Biographie is another early contender, first done by Chris Sharma in 2001.

First 9b is commonly taken to be Chris Sharmas Jumbo Love, first done in 2008. There's also Chilam Ballam which was claimed at 9b in 2003, though there's some doubt about the FA and some repeat ascentionists have suggested 9a+.

I think what's clear is that Mutation was absolutely cutting edge at the time and has stood the test of time. Pretty remarkable given Steve had only been climbing a handful of years when he put it up.

1
 UKB Shark 02 Nov 2021
In reply to remus:

> Pretty remarkable given Steve had only been climbing a handful of years when he put it up.

It was remarkable but not for that reason. He was in his late twenties by then and started climbing at a young age - crimping gnarly holds stuck on the wall of his parents garage. Compared to Malc repeating Hubble at 18 Steve was a late developer.

 remus Global Crag Moderator 02 Nov 2021
In reply to UKB Shark:

> It was remarkable but not for that reason. He was in his late twenties by then and started climbing at a young age - crimping gnarly holds stuck on the wall of his parents garage. Compared to Malc repeating Hubble at 18 Steve was a late developer.

Good point, what I should have said was 'sport climbing for a handful of years'.

In reply to remus:

> Alex Hubers Open Air was climbed in 1996 and initially given 9a but was later upgraded by Ondra (who made the second ascent), so if Mutation is 9a+ it'd be the second after Open Air. Biographie is another early contender, first done by Chris Sharma in 2001.

> First 9b is commonly taken to be Chris Sharmas Jumbo Love, first done in 2008. There's also Chilam Ballam which was claimed at 9b in 2003, though there's some doubt about the FA and some repeat ascentionists have suggested 9a+.

Good knowledge. Do you know who else had had serious time on it? 

> I think what's clear is that Mutation was absolutely cutting edge at the time and has stood the test of time. Pretty remarkable given Steve had only been climbing a handful of years when he put it up.

As you say even at 'just' 9a+ * it's a stellar effort both by Steve and now Will. I'm not much of a sport climber and rarely get excited about the biggest numbers, but the history and the timescale really got my attention for once. 

* I guess Will's grading of it is at least informed within the context of him having punched above that grade by some margin, but I really wish he'd said 9b! 😂 

 remus Global Crag Moderator 02 Nov 2021
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

> Good knowledge. Do you know who else had had serious time on it? 

Ryan Pasquill has put some serious time in to it and Pete Dawson has had a few sessions I believe. I think Megos may have had a session or two as well? Im not aware of anyone other than that (though I could well be missing someone!)

In reply to remus:

Mat Wright has put a couple of days in.

Post edited at 22:36
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In reply to remus:

> Pete Dawson has had a few sessions I believe. I think Megos may have had a session or two as well? Im not aware of anyone other than that (though I could well be missing someone!)

Think Pete has got pretty close?? I've seen some footage where he gets pretty close. Would be ace to see him get it done!

 Michael Gordon 03 Nov 2021
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

> Do you know who else had had serious time on it? >

The news report has a quote about it from Chris Sharma, so he's presumably been on it, but depends what counts as 'serious time'.

 remus Global Crag Moderator 03 Nov 2021
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> The news report has a quote about it from Chris Sharma, so he's presumably been on it, but depends what counts as 'serious time'.

From what I understand Chris basically dogged it, thought the holds were minging and diplomatically phrased it as "I will never climb this route".

 gman2012 03 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Will Bosi goes into more detail in an interview with Tom Randall on the Lattice YouTube channel.

youtube.com/watch?v=MBDqpUKgAyE&

 HeMa 03 Nov 2021
In reply to remus:

> Alex Hubers Open Air was climbed in 1996 and initially given 9a but was later upgraded by Ondra (who made the second ascent), so if Mutation is 9a+ it'd be the second after Open Air. Biographie is another early contender, first done by Chris Sharma in 2001.

> First 9b is commonly taken to be Chris Sharmas Jumbo Love, first done in 2008. There's also Chilam Ballam which was claimed at 9b in 2003, though there's some doubt about the FA and some repeat ascentionists have suggested 9a+.

Now that Hongy did the first repeat of Caldwells Flex Luthor, the timelines might be a bit more skewed than initially though.  More here:
https://explorersweb.com/2021/10/13/matty-hong-claims-first-repeat-of-flex-luthor-5-15b-18-years-after-first-ascent/

Note, 5.15B = 9b

 remus Global Crag Moderator 03 Nov 2021
In reply to HeMa:

I also forgot to mention Stefan Furst's Qui which was climbed in 1996 and gets 8c+/9a/9a+ depending on who you ask. I think Stefan suggested 8c+/9a originally, but Adam Ondra thought 9a+ when he made the second ascent. 

https://climbing-history.org/climb/1194/qui

 HeMa 03 Nov 2021
In reply to remus:

With estimate did Seb (the french guy, not Grieve sp?) to Akira. Was it 9a or 9a+?

As I recall it was climbing in mid 90s as well.

 Ned 03 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

"Will Bosi (right) after the send"

That's a great low-key dad joke in the caption

 Phil Murray 03 Nov 2021
In reply to Ned:

Yes - I spotted that one!

 Phil Murray 03 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Posing Productions have (very kindly) put up their 2006  (15 years ago!) footage onto YouTube - blimey, sobering.  Insanely small holds, & clearly not remotely possible for 99.9% of us .....

Word is Alex Megos would like another go.  Maybe he can grade it. Top end 9a+ ...or borderline 9b? 

Also, wonder what the UK tech grade would be ? 7a or.... harder.  Wowsers. 

youtube.com/watch?v=8f3WGYc6bXM&

In reply to Ned:

Always wanted to do it. Finally had the opportunity. The dog is called Bill, so it is quite confusing really. They have the same name, after all. 

In reply to UKC News:

Congrats and well done Will!

An amazing effort!

Lattice athlete in top form!

Post edited at 13:36
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In reply to Ramon Marin:

Too right!

 remus Global Crag Moderator 03 Nov 2021
In reply to HeMa:

> With estimate did Seb (the french guy, not Grieve sp?) to Akira. Was it 9a or 9a+?

> As I recall it was climbing in mid 90s as well.

Seb Bouin suggested 9a for Akira, as did Lucien Martinez who did it on the same day as Seb.

 magma 03 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

how many 8cs make a 9b?

 Dale Turrell 04 Nov 2021
In reply to remus:

> Seb Bouin suggested 9a for Akira, as did Lucien Martinez who did it on the same day as Seb.

As did Joshua Fourteau who did the 4th ascent a few months later.  They chose not to use a knee pad but both Joshua and Seb have said it would be 8c+ with one.

 Spanish Jack 04 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Wonder what project in Scotland he has on mind! The one unclimbed line at dumby? Or some boulders…


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