In reply to wbo2:
> Interesting how the use of the word 'leashless' has evolved, to now literally meaning without any leash at all, rather than just meaning not using a weighted wrist loop.
Presumably this is what you are referring to:
Long and serious – this is why the two chose to climb the route using leashes. As Jasper explained to us: “on long alpine routes I believe that it’s simply too dangerous to climb without leashes. If for some reason you drop your ice axe, the situation suddenly becomes very serious indeed. Last year I discussed this at length with Will Gadd and other Canadian climbers and we came to the conclusion that leashes are essential on long mountain routes, because of the added security they offer. On modern drytooling routes they’re obviously taboo”
I'm not actually clear whether that means they were climbing with wrist-loops or "idiot cords" attaching their tools to their harness (I can't tell from the photos). Yes, climbing without some form of attachment would seem like madness though. Also interesting about modern dry-tooling routes - isn't the main point of going leashless to make swapping hands and placing gear and so on easy rather than some ethical thing?