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VIDEO: Five Ten Hiangles - A set of performance climbing shoes

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 UKC Videos 02 Feb 2021
[Five Ten Hiangles - A set of performance climbing shoes]

The Hiangle is a longstanding model within the Five Ten range. Within this video, we'll be looking at each of the three new models, released late last year: the Hiangle, Hiangle LV (low volume) and Hiangle Pro.

Look out for our in-depth review soon.



Watch the video: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=5372
In reply to UKC Videos:

I'm writing this review up currently, but if anyone has any questions in the meanwhile feel free to fire them over.

 remus Global Crag Moderator 04 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Videos:

Good video! Looking forward to the full review, especially interested in how the pro's climb and whether they'll be a full on specialist shoe (i.e. total crap on anything else) or whether they're still reasonably versatile.

In reply to remus:

> Good video! Looking forward to the full review, especially interested in how the pro's climb and whether they'll be a full on specialist shoe (i.e. total crap on anything else) or whether they're still reasonably versatile.

Clearly the current lockdown hasn't been ideal for trying them out, both indoors and out, as all the climbing walls are closed and - to make matters worse - it doesn't feel like it's stopped raining or snowing throughout the majority of 2021! 

As per the video, the issue I've had so far is the fit, as the sizing is definitely different, as is the volume in/around the toe box. In terms of performance they feel pretty similar to the likes of the other no-edge shoes I've tried, insofar as they're great on more marginal terrain. The vast majority of the time you barely notice the absence of an actual edge; however, there's also some times - particularly on mediums such as Peak Lime - where an edge makes a massive difference.

It would suffice to say that whilst I've really got on with the new Hiangles, and could see myself wearing them once I've finished writing the review, I've been much more luke-warm about the Hiangle Pro, but that mostly comes down to the fit. If they fit then I suspect my thoughts re: no-edge above would apply - they'd be great for some things, less great for others.

 Arms Cliff 04 Feb 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Hey Rob, have you got a pair of the Pro’s that fit now? These were the ones I’m most interested in hearing about, but doesn’t feel like they’re going to get a fair shout if you could wear a pair of wooly socks inside 😄

 jezb1 04 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC Videos:

I’m assuming the new hi angle is nothing like the old blue hi angles that I love?

In reply to Arms Cliff:

> Hey Rob, have you got a pair of the Pro’s that fit now? These were the ones I’m most interested in hearing about, but doesn’t feel like they’re going to get a fair shout if you could wear a pair of wooly socks inside 😄

I've still got the same pair, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem - it's not the first time I've had to review a pair of shoes that haven't fit perfectly! In addition to this, they're not a total write-off - it's just that they're a little longer and little higher volume in/around the toe-box. Clearly this may suit some, but not others, and for me it moves them from being a perfect fit (like the Hiangle is) to a passable fit, which is more than good enough for a review, but not necessarily what I'd be busting out on a day-to-day basis.

As/when shops open again I'd always suggest to head down and try a pair on, as I'd be curious to see how others find them. My suspicion is that Five Ten could have gone a little high in terms of the volume in/around the toe-box, but as always - it just depends on how they fit your feet.

Either way, I better get writing this review up now!

In reply to jezb1:

> I’m assuming the new hi angle is nothing like the old blue hi angles that I love?

One of the perks of my job is that I get to try a LOT of climbing shoes, hence can comment on one generation to the next, but sadly this isn't the case with the Hiangle as this is the first version of them that I've used.

That said, Penny - my wife - has been reviewing the Low Volume Hiangle and was previously a fan of the old pinks (which - I think - are from the same generation as the blues you mentioned). Her memory is a little shaky on how they performed, not least because it was several years ago now, but she reckons that the newer version is a little stiffer and feels different around the toe-box.

As per the post above, I'd definitely recommend trying a pair on as/when the shops open again. I've attached some pics of each side by side. Take time to appreciate how worn the older pair are (they were well loved!!).


 jezb1 04 Feb 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Very helpful, thanks Rob!

My last pair of blues (I stocked up!) are probably even worse than her pinks sadly!

I’ll definitely be trying them on, I have a pair of new Dragons that I didn’t and the toe box has so much more volume than the oldies, sadly for me.


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