Australian Climber Zac Vertrees is at home on the Dogface climbing Gigantor, a route first aid climbed in 1967 by John Ewbank. Zac freed the route in 2005, but it has not seen a second free ascent since. 15 years later in 2020, he returns to re-climb it and finds it tougher than ever before.
Beautiful, engaging footage which really conveys what "proper trad" actually feels like! My only reservation is that some of it appears to have been edited so as to be out of sequence, which I found distracting.
There's an explanation on the actual YouTube page as a a Pinned Comment with the following response:
"There’s an 11 or 12 bolt belay there. Bunch of which I filmed when Paul mentions the bad bolts. Neither the FA or FFA used them at all. They were put in by parties trying to repeat the route on aid and getting scared. When John climbed it in one pitch for the FA he didn’t need belay stations and as you know Zac wasn’t using any bolts at all."
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News 2023 Piolets d'Or Significant Ascents List Announced
Seven ascents involving British climbers have made the 2023 longlist of significant global ascents released by the Piolets d'Or organising committee. Each year, the Piolets d'Or recognise significant new ascents in mountaineering, taking...