UKC

NEWS: Glowacz and Team - Baffin Island Big Wall

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 Jack Geldard 25 Jun 2008
Take the Long Way Home is their 700m, 21 pitch route up a formation called The Bastion. With difficulties up to F8a+ and A4 it is likely the hardest route on Baffin Island.

The name of the route comes from the epic journey back to civilisation that followed the climb. They travelled for 16 days on foot and skis to reach Clyde River - a small settlement over 200 miles from their starting point.

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44970
 gaz parry 26 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:


I asked Ben Moon last sat if it is true about Stefans os of Strawberries and he wasnt so sure? Does anybody out there know the real answer?
 Dave C 26 Jun 2008
In reply to gaz parry: It was widely reported in the mags at the time that he had indeed done it.
OP Jack Geldard 26 Jun 2008
In reply to gaz parry: Hi Gaz,

I know.

Strawberries article coming in the next few weeks on UKC.

All will be revealed.

Jack

 duncan 27 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

So...amazing looking, very hard new route gets climbed in extremely committing location and we get three posts about Tremadoc!

In other news, Stefan Glowacz once climbed Crescent Arete.
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 27 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
>
> I know.
>
> Strawberries article coming in the next few weeks on UKC.
>
Excellent - I will look forward to that, Jack.

Will you manage to explain the apparent discrepancies in the grade, as discussed in this thread?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=231274

Cheers

Neil
 Tom Briggs 27 Jun 2008
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
> Excellent - I will look forward to that, Jack.
>
> Will you manage to explain the apparent discrepancies in the grade, as discussed in this thread?
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=231274
>
> Cheers
>
> Neil

I think the recent shutting down of Euro wads (not to mention the current Climb cover star) supports my argument on that thread! I don't think F9a climbers fall off F7b/E6.
 Morgan Woods 27 Jun 2008
In reply to Neil Foster:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
> Excellent - I will look forward to that, Jack.
>
> Will you manage to explain the apparent discrepancies in the grade, as discussed in this thread?
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=231274
>
> Cheers
>
> Neil

interesting topic....not sure why replies in that thread are disabled....nothing too controversial except maybe:

"Paz on - 09 Mar 2007
In reply to stp:

Is this down to the fact that sport grades in the UK in the 1980s were brick hard, and then during the 1990s, on the continent 9as became almost ten a penny (and 8bs were your warm up) even though Hubble and Action Direct were 8c+ according to Moon."

 Jon Read 27 Jun 2008
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> interesting topic....not sure why replies in that thread are disabled....

Because it's over a year old, probably.
OP Jack Geldard 27 Jun 2008
In reply to Neil Foster: I will Neil. But not until I've been and taken the beating myself.

Got a great interview with Stefan too.

PS. I wish you'd all stop saying how hard it is - you're putting me right off!

Jack
 Morgan Woods 27 Jun 2008
In reply to duncan:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> So...amazing looking, very hard new route gets climbed in extremely committing location and we get three posts about Tremadoc!
>
> In other news, Stefan Glowacz once climbed Crescent Arete.

mmmm i wonder what E-grade 8a+/A4 on Baffin Island gets ;o
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 27 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Best of luck, Jack.

Isn't Dai or someone guaranteeing free beer for life if you get up it?

What with that and the encouragement / beta in these threads, you can hardly fail!

No pressure now....

Neil
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