I hope we've covered quite a few of them. One of the requests was for me to write about my experiences of on-sight trad climbing. What follows is an account of a recent brush with Gravediggers E8 6c - an accidental on-sight attempt:
"...Caution to the wind and I'm cupping the loosest and best bit of the hold, really leaning on it with all my weight. It's moving a bit too much... F*ck. Will it come off? I don't care any more, anything to relieve the pump.
Looking down at the fall, checking the runner, it looks too far. Will I hit that buttress? Will the wire hold me? God, I should have backed it up. Shit. Why didn't I back it up? Why did I climb this high? Fingers begin to unravel on the flake now..."
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Like it.. sounds pretty exciting! Looking forward to seeing the full vid..
So what're these soft touches that suit lanky, weak, scared people then? (From a lanky, weak, scared person who like soft touches)
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: That's a brilliant article and the video clip at the end really finishes it off well, it's a great insight into the head games of hard trad-I can't wait to see "onsight" now, it looks class!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Excellent read - you're one brave hombre!
PS I'd always (mistakenly) believed that Whillans was the first to climb Grond. It's mentioned on Joe Brown's site as JB's First Ascent (yet, under the FA details, it says 'also led by Whillans Patey And Smith at the same time').
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:great effort jack, i belayed ioan(doyle) on it on the 18th of may ! he took a 20+ ft fall on his o/s go. he then top roped it twice before sending it in style, hope you`ve done it since !
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