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FEATURE: Grit Blocs - A Rummage Through The Offcuts Bin

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 UKC Articles 17 Nov 2022

Dave Parry writes about how he selected the boulders for his recent book, Grit Blocs, and shares some of the problems that didn't quite make the cut.

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1
 Graham Booth 17 Nov 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

Boo hiss!, Digitation should have made it anyway! 😂😂

 mrphilipoldham 17 Nov 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'm happy you left Blackstone Edge out. Keeps it unchalked, untrashed and best of all.. quiet. It's a crap crag and not worth bothering with.. ahem

2
 plyometrics 17 Nov 2022
In reply to Graham Booth:

Agreed. A rite of passage for many a Lancashire lad and lass. 

 simes303 18 Nov 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

Digitation is great. And certainly doesn't need pads. 

6
 simes303 18 Nov 2022
In reply to plyometrics:

> Agreed. A rite of passage for many a Lancashire lad and lass. 

Also agreed.

Si.

 Graeme Hammond 18 Nov 2022
In reply to simes303:

> Digitation is great. And certainly doesn't need pads. 

It it like one of those situations where its cheating to use pads but fine to headpoint?

In reply to UKC Articles:

If nothing else this article reminded me how frickin' awesome I'll Bet She Does (E3 6a) is! I appreciate it occupies that weird space between route and boulder but surely it's one of the king lines of Simon's seat, if you lug a pad all the way up there you've just got to do it....

Saying that I thought The Naked Edge (E3 6a) just round the corner was both better, harder and scarier (in a good way). Possibly my favourite grit highball.

 Graeme Hammond 18 Nov 2022
In reply to ebdon:

> If nothing else this article reminded me how frickin' awesome I'll Bet She Does (E3 6a) is! I appreciate it occupies that weird space between route and boulder but surely it's one of the king lines of Simon's seat, if you lug a pad all the way up there you've just got to do it....

I thought it was slightly disappointing as the described line in the centre is actually a bit eliminate compared to the more natural line but much easier line which starts one step to the right but closer to the crack but takes you to the same decent hold in the centre of the wall from where thing ease somewhat on the dead centre line. See most of the photos of people on the logbooks are on the easier line.

> Saying that I thought The Naked Edge (E3 6a) just round the corner was both better, harder and scarier (in a good way). Possibly my favourite grit highball. 

Agree, though don't know if I did the lower part of this correctly. My notes were "Climbed the natural line starting on RHS then mainly on LHS, focing your way up only on the RHS side is bullshit in both guides it should just say 'climb the arete'." Though perhaps I am wrong. I wonder how everyone else does it. Some others in the logbooks seem to agree with my assessment, it still felt like it was worth the grade and brilliant like this

Post edited at 16:35
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Yes, now I think back I remember thinking I bet she does was a bit eliminate in the first moves to the good hold and spent a while working out where to start. It was worth it for the rest though, however it's a style I really like so perhaps I'm biased. 

I did naked edge like you, starting on the right, moving left for a few moves then followed the ramp feature to the top where it was horribly green and scrittely and i vividly recall went on for 1 more move than I was both expecting and wanted! All added to the fun though.

I never did and and she was though as there was a sudden rather unexpected thunderstorm that sent me and my trusty spotter/ long suffering wife cowering in a cave. Not sure I've quite got the energy to lug a pad back up there though.

In reply to UKC Articles:

I have seen his wedge climbing video about his photography and it is really interesting.

Post edited at 14:43

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