/ NEWS: Hubble 9a by Pete Dawson

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UKC News 07 Aug 2019
Pete Dawson has climbed his second 9a with an ascent of the historic Hubble 9a at Raven Tor.  Last summer, Pete ticked his first of the grade with an ascent of Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove.

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UKB Shark 07 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Pete

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Sean Kelly 07 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Some forearms on this lad!!! (see first pic)

Post edited at 22:40
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FactorXXX 07 Aug 2019
In reply to Sean Kelly:

> Some forearms on this lad!!! (see first pic)

Think it's two arms that look like one at a casual glance.
Then again, maybe you need such Popeye type appendages to climb 9a.
Top effort though no matter what size his arms actually are! 

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MischaHY 08 Aug 2019
In reply to FactorXXX:

Thank god for that I was blown away :') 

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Michael Hood 08 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort, now looking at Mutation?

Has this had a second ascent?

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1poundSOCKS 08 Aug 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

> Has this had a second ascent?

No. Alex Megos tried it and thought it was 9a+.

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teddy 08 Aug 2019

Great to witness a few sessions of the process from Pete's initial forays to the last session pre-send hitting the final hold of the crux in horrible conditions. A superb effort! 

Mutation hasn't yet had a second ascent. 

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Andy Farnell 08 Aug 2019
In reply to teddy: 

It's great that Pete has done it. He was close a few weeks back and you could tell it was a matter of time before he did it. Fantastic effort.

Andy F

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MischaHY 08 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Video here. Looks so steady! 

https://www.vimeo.com/352458505 

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jon 08 Aug 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

Ace!

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Iamgregp 08 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome!  

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Iamgregp 08 Aug 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

Thanks!  Makes it look easy (other than the match underclings which is clearly horrific)...

Bit run out at the end isn't it?

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Luke_92 08 Aug 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

Is there a real world benefit to belaying with this much slack in the system? I see it all the time, but don't understand it. I manage to avoid short roping people, and give a soft catch whilst having a lot less rope than that out all the time. It's fairly well the whole route, but at the 1:40 mark stands out the most. Am i missing something?

Amazing climbing though!

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MischaHY 08 Aug 2019
In reply to Luke_92:

He'd just clipped there and so I think it looks like more than it actually is. That said I'd say from personal experience on a hard redpoint that I'd much rather fall an extra metre or two than be short roped when I'm on the crux or a tenuous move. 

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spidermonkey09 08 Aug 2019
In reply to Luke_92:

In my view there is absolutely nothing wrong with the belaying in the video. In my experience having a bit extra out helps to avoid the grigri jamming if the climber pulls up slack suddenly to clip. I don't know how much projecting/sieging/time wasting on sport routes you do, but I would be absolutely filthy if I was anywhere close to being short roped when high on a route I'd been trying for ages. As long as its safe and high enough from the ground, theres no problem.

Post edited at 15:07
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CharlieMack 09 Aug 2019
In reply to Luke_92:

Agreed with others above, I think it's a decent amount of slack. Also, it looks worse than it is, as the belayer is much closer to the camera than the bolt. So whilst it looks like he's stood below the  bolt with a lot of slack out. He's actually stood quite far from the bolt with a very reasonable amount of slack. 

Great bit of climbing! We were on one of the routes to the left, and hadn't realised what he'd ticked. Nice not to have over the top victory cries! 

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MischaHY 09 Aug 2019
In reply to CharlieMack:

> Nice not to have over the top victory cries! 

To be fair considering the route I'd have let him off for a bit of victory yodelling! 

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Hardonicus 09 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

"However, it later became apparent that the route was far harder than originally thought and it is now considered to be the world's first 9a."

Easy now!!!

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geordiepie 09 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Good ol UKC. An impressive ascent from a UK climber and the main point of conversation is how much slack is out.

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Michael Gordon 09 Aug 2019
In reply to geordiepie:

Why not? A much better topic than "is it really 9a"!

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UKB Shark 09 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Approximately how many ascents has it had now...?

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teddy 09 Aug 2019
In reply to UKB Shark:

8 I believe? The others were:

Moon, Smith, Gaskins, Dunning, McClure, Megos, Bosi

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owensum 12 Aug 2019
In reply to teddy:

> 8 I believe? The others were:

> Moon, Smith, Gaskins, Dunning, McClure, Megos, Bosi

Rich Simpson's claimed ascent has been debunked I take it?

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