UKC

NEWS: I am Jerry Moffatt

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 Michael Ryan 13 Feb 2009
Last night was the official launch of Jerry Moffatt – Revelations, the biography of one of the world's top rock climbers of the last 30 years.

At his peak, Jerry was the best in the world at bouldering and lead rock climbing, as well as being a pioneer in training techniques, and a main mover in the development of lead climbing walls.

Read the report with photos: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=46057
Peter Cain 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Is that really Mark Leach????????
 Dave C 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Good grief, the last time I saw Mark Pretty and Chris Plant would have been the very first time I ever went to Ravens Tor in 1989. Mark was hanging around on his project that eventually became Make It Funky while Chris was on belaying duties. Bloody hell I'm feeling old now!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

He may have been a decent climber but I'd question his taste in wallpaper!

jcm
 GrahamD 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


> At his peak, Jerry was the best in the world at bouldering and lead rock climbing, as well as being a pioneer in training techniques, and a main mover in the development of lead climbing walls.

OK, I'll bite. What was the hardest bit of bouldering or lead climbing IN THE WORLD that Jerry managed ?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

It is a very well written book and easy to read with a good flow to things.

Grimer has done an excellent job and I would recommend it to anyone who has an interest in climbing history, training, mental approaches and wants to be inspired!
 mctrials23 13 Feb 2009
In reply to GrahamD: No idea but for a while there he was the best in the world. I doubt that many of the new routes he established are still the very hardest but at the time he was the tits.
 pmot 13 Feb 2009
In reply to GrahamD:

The Force or Dominator or some Camp4 problem?

He was more about quick repeats of lots of (8b+) hard stuff in quick succession, buoux, smith rock etc

Wasnt The Face the worlds first 8a ?


 Mike Highbury 13 Feb 2009
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> He may have been a decent climber but I'd question his taste in wallpaper!
>
> jcm

Oh, I dunno. It matches her scarf.
 peter beal 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Hi Mick,
Is this being distributed in the US?
Peter
 Michael Ryan 13 Feb 2009
In reply to peter beal:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Hi Mick,
> Is this being distributed in the US?
> Peter

I'll find out Peter. I do know they are shipping copies everywhere.
 woolsack 13 Feb 2009
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
>
> [...]
>
> OK, I'll bite. What was the hardest bit of bouldering or lead climbing IN THE WORLD that Jerry managed ?

bouldering was just what you did when it was raining back then and you couldn't climb
In reply to pmot:

>Wasnt The Face the worlds first 8a ?

Surely not. Isn't that Grand Illusion?

jcm
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

No!

I'm Jerry Moffat and so's my wife!
 TimB 14 Feb 2009
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
>
> [...]
>
> OK, I'll bite. What was the hardest bit of bouldering or lead climbing IN THE WORLD that Jerry managed ?

Off the top of my head and only FAs,
for bouldering, probably The Ace at Stanage (Ft8b - 2000)
for sport routes, possibly Liquid Ambar at LPT (F8c?F8c+?? - 1990?)
for trad routes, probably Masters Wall at Cloggy (E7 - 1983) (or Samson at Burbage if you want grit)
Oliver Metherell 19 Feb 2009
In reply to TimB:

The book tells a remarkable story and is very well written. I really enjoyed in and it was 2am by the time I finally closed it. Enjoy.

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